Joystick and Remappable   6-29-2018

Written and Edited by: MarkEAW
Other Info: Trindade, Uriah, Huntress, JWC, Chase, Jel, VBH and the MicroProse Manual, patch Readme.rtf texts and the MPS EAWFAQ for the additional information. An extensive section also written by McGruff_GS and Knegel ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Download Links:



Important Notice 1 | Important Notice 2 | Important Notice 3
Getting Your Primary Flight Control To Work
Getting Your Rudder Foot Pedals or Extra Throttle To Work (Joystick with Secondary Controller(s))
Joystick Types Known To Work | Controller Drivers | Combining Controls | Assigning Device ID Option
Chain-Linked Option | Down Grade Stick | Gameports | Game Cable To USB | Hot Swapping Controls
Setup In Game First/Profile Software | Gaming Keyboards/Mice/Keypads | USB Joystick Disconnects From Windows
Joystick Not Recognized At All
Joystick Grayed Out/Axis Not Responding | Controls Messed Up/Plane Drifting Sideways
The Joystick Pulls Or Acts Erratically In The Game | POV Hat Not Working | Erratic View Changing Automatically
No Keyboard or Joystick Buttons Working | No control over the Aircraft and can't escape from the game
Crash To Desktop at Mission Loading Screen | Crash To Desktop, FF
 WinXP and Targeting Keys | Fast Computers and Mouse Click Selections | Unwanted Entry's In The eaw.ini
Manually Enter Settings | MicroProse Info From The User Manual




A Introduction Setting | Quick Roll Rate Test | Finding The Sweet Spot

The Forces

EAW.INI | Backup Note

Joystick With 4 Buttons/4 Way Hat Example
All About Your Control Choices
Situational Awareness | In Flight Display Data (HUD) | Keyboard & Joystick Setup
View Flying Styles
Internal Views | External Views | Targeting Functions
Other Important Buttons On The Stick | Important Buttons On The Stick For Online Play

Modifying the EAW.INI | Joystick EAW.INI Commands | Lesser Known Key WORDS
Common Changes from the Default | Freeing up some Keys
WEP or 'War Emergency Power' |  Mouse | Here's the Mouse Buttons | Screen Shots

Repair a semi-functioning Micro-Switch Joystick Button



If you have access to one, it’s best to use a joystick as the primary control device for European Air War. Even in tandem with a mouse, the joystick is essential—a joystick is the optimum controller for the plane in flight. Its best with a throttle and twist handle (rudder) built in. Separate rudder pedals will work with EAW v1.2 although many people have trouble getting them set up (read further for details). Also the more buttons on your stick the better: there are a lot of controls which you need to have quickly at hand. If you are wasting time searching for the right keyboard key in a dogfight your life expectancy is not going to be high (read more about this later).

This help document is for v1.2 of EAW. If you need help with the CodeGroups independent source modded EAW Game, please continue to use this help document and also see this other one: CodeGroup Joystick and Remappable Help Document. This second help document will provide continued assistance with 1.28 versions and up.



Here I will try to explain how to get your controllers working with EAW. I'll start with the obvious steps then move onto more advanced steps. First a few friendly notices:

Important Notice 1: EAW does not require Windows Shortcut Compatibility Tab settings to be used to run correctly. Those settings will interfere with EAW from recognizing your Joystick.

Important Notice 2: This is an early reminder that after you have correctly setup your controls to work with EAW, that you don't forget to make a backup copy of your eaw.ini file to another location.

Important Notice 3: Also do not unplug your controllers for swapping, they must be in the proper working order before launching EAW; In Windows Control Panel Gaming Devices you should have your "preferred device / works with old games / first in the list / Device ID 1" Joystick set before starting EAW every time. If not, EAW will blank out your button assignments, loosing them all. If you don't understand now, you will after reading this help document, so don't worry.


Lets really get started by reading the rest of this section.


Getting Your Primary Flight Control To Work:
(All Axis's including Throttle and Rudder Twist Handles, if your stick includes them.)

1)Make sure your using the latest custom build of the particular source code modified version of EAW your playing. (Note: For the Original stock game, you may want to patch up to v1.2 as some controller issues where fixed, especially for Logitech Joysticks, otherwise continue). (The Special Effects EAW; FXEXE is considered v1.2 controller compatible).

Just to be on the safe side while you follow these steps, if you have more controllers than your one Primary Flight Joystick installed on your machine (like a Gamepad, Wheel, Rudder Pedals or Throttle Stick), it's highly recommended to uninstall and disconnect all of them before attempting to run EAW, as unforeseen problems may occur, such as EAW not detecting your wanted preferred Primary Flight Joystick controller. So remove and disconnect them.

If you have a programmable joystick, be sure that the programming portion of the software for it has been shut off and that the joystick is not using a profile, its not required and will only interfere with EAW detecting your Joystick during the launch to the flight screen. (For your information, with-in EAW, you can assign any function you desire to any button on the Joystick in the Advanced Control menus.)

2)After reading and following instructions in step 1 above, be sure your Joystick or main flight control is listed (or assigned) as ID 1(or preferred device) in your Windows operating system in the Game Controllers control panel. It should be at the top of the list. To do this in Windows XP go into the Control Panel and select Game Controllers and make sure your stick is listed as the first controller on your list of controllers; Click the Advanced button, your stick should be listed as your Legacy Controller. In Windows 7, 8, 10 go into the Control Panel and select Devices and Printers> Find your Joystick Icon Device> Right Click and select Game Controller Settings> Click Advanced and Select your Primary Joystick, this will set it for Preferred Device and Ok it. (For any version of Windows OS you can get there too by clicking the start button and in the search or run box type "JOY.CPL" and press the enter key.)

3)If you have previously run EAW with or without any controllers connected, as a precaution, delete your eaw.ini file (Found in the EAW Game Folder) and then re run the game. Typically the game detects and sets the correct Controller defaults and means everything should be working correctly and you won't have to move any setting manually. However once in awhile you must enable your controller; go to Game Configuration/Set-Up> Controls and on the Controller Setup Screen, set your basic Flight Controls; There you will see the first four lines, make sure they are all moved to the left most setting. For FLIGHT CONTROL to Joystick, So if your joystick has a throttle and rudder built in, then THROTTLE CONTROL to Throttle and RUDDER CONTROL to Rudder in that order.

(Note: None of the selection options on the left most setting should not be grayed out if your Joystick supports all of those functions and the circled options should not be set to Keyboard, unless your Joystick lacks a Throttle and Rudder.)  If all went well with EAW detecting your primary controller (FLIGHT CONTROL set to Joystick is important here), it should not be grayed out, then you can try a Quick mission to test your controllers performance. However if the Joystick setting for FLIGHT CONTROL is grayed out, read the next paragraph.

If any of them are grayed out that should not be, then exit the game and open your eaw.ini file with notepad. Make sure that the setting for Windows Joystick=1 and not zero. (this turns off the faulty DirectInput API EAW was programmed with and uses the older Windows Controller API instead when set to 1.) Now re-enter the game and first go to Game Configuration/Set-Up> Controls and on the Controller Setup Screen, set your basic Flight Controls as outlined in step 3 above. If all went well once your done doing that, play a quick mission and see if your Joystick or primary controller is now working properly in flight. (If the selection options are grayed out, this means your stick is still not detected, continue onto the next paragraph below.)

Still not working correctly? If not, and you find that you're having difficulty getting the game to detect your primary Joystick (remember, at this point it should be the only controller plugged in), leave the game and try uninstalling all software and drivers of your control peripherals including your primary. Also physically remove them from the computer ports, reboot. Then re-install only your primary Joystick by following your sticks install instructions. (Of the few problematic instances MicroProse experienced during the testing process, uninstalling and re-installing the peripheral in question typically solved the problem.)
Next make sure in the Windows Game Controller settings your stick is set as the Preferred Device or ID1, top or first in the list. Now delete your eaw.ini file again and then re-run the game and see if your Primary Stick is detected correctly by first going to Game Configuration/Set-Up> Controls and on the Controller Setup Screen, set your basic Flight Controls as outlined in step 3 above. If all went well, once your done doing that, play a quick mission and see if your Joystick or primary controller is now working properly in flight. (If the selection options are grayed out, this means your stick is still not detected, continue onto the next paragraph below.)

Hmmm. If your still having Problems Getting Your Primary Controller To work and don't understand why, see the 'SOME MORE TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS' section below for technical notes. (Don't bother trying to get your Secondary control working until you succeed in getting your Primary in working order first.)


Getting Your Rudder Foot Pedals or Extra Throttle To Work
(Joystick with Secondary Controller(s)):

Foot pedals are optional hardware for controlling the rudder of the plane. If you do not have rudder pedals, don’t worry; European Air War also allows you to control the rudder from the keyboard, joystick (twist handle), or mouse. You will find that rudder control is an integral part of maneuvering. It provides several useful maneuvers that are available to you that are not possible using the stick ailerons alone. (Although Foot Pedals are more realistic, they are actually harder to coordinate with feet and hands at first, however overtime they become second nature.) With a twist control on a Joystick you find yourself using the rudder without consciously being aware of it. An extra Throttle stick is optional too as most Primary Joysticks will have that axis built in...

The problematic situation is that EAW v1.2 recognizes by auto selecting (rather than manually) only one game controller. If you only have one joystick it will work in the Windows Controller ID#1 slot. If you have two game controller devices, EAW will usually only recognize the controller in the Windows Controller ID#2 slot. Because of this EAW is not under normal situations compatible with an External Rudder. However EAW may (but not always) under unique situations successfully recognize a separate secondary type of controller (such as separate rudder pedals or throttle) plugged into different ports on the computer. Read on for solutions.

Your chances improve for secondary controller detection when a few special situations are met; One being you have special software to virtually combine them into one Device ID (sometimes your Joystick/HOTAS software has support for legacy games). Two they are physically linked (connected together and they connect to the PC by a single cable). Three they use different types of ports (One using a USB the other a Gameport) on the computer. I also find that most set ups have a problem with extra Rudder Pedals when the Joystick already has a Twist-Handle built in, Thus EAW gets confused and doesn't allow either device to function.

*Three (3) Device Warning: If you have three devices and if they are all listed as one DeviceID# in the Windows Gaming Control Panel, Such as Stick, Throttle, Rudder on ID1, (most likely linked in some way, via software or hardware board with no legacy game support software.) This may or may not work with EAWv1.2 and three physically different devices. The Rudder axis may actually be controlled by the Throttle levers. I'm not aware of any other solution in this scenario other than to remove the Pedals or the Throttle to allow the other to work. If you have a solution, I'd like to hear from you.


Let's try to get the 2nd Control to work with EAW v1.2 now.


1) For the setup of your external throttle or rudder pedals, if you have confirmed already that your primary controller is working properly in game, Install and Connect your Throttle stick or Rudder pedals as directed by the manufacture.

2) Find out where your Throttle or Rudder Pedals are on the list in Windows and write it down. Device ID2 is where it should be at, with again, your primary flight stick should still be the preferred Device ID1. If not move your flight Joystick to ID1 (first on the list/work with older game option).

3) Load up the game and go to "CONFIGURE GAME" > "CONTROL". You should be on the 'Controller Setup' Screen. There you will see the first four lines, make sure they are all moved to the left most setting. The Joystick is assigned for Flight Control and Rudder is Rudder and Throttle is Throttle, Camera is Mouse.

If all went well with EAW detecting your secondary controller, none of them will be grayed out and you can try a Quick mission to test both your controllers out.

If any of them are grayed out then see the 'SOME MORE TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS' section below titled 'Combing Controls' for explanations and options you have. Then come back here.

4) Goto step 3 and see if any of the control options are grayed out. If everything worked out then you can fly to see if your controls are responding correctly. If any are grayed out then you need to see the 'SOME MORE TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS' section again.



Here are some technical details that are helpful in troubleshooting, in no particular order.

Joystick Types Known To Work:
Gameport / Midi , PS/2, Serial, USB, any stick that Windows can recognize. Some may have a special switch on them or their software may have a selection you must enable to work with Legacy Games. Some people may find out you do not install the included software at all, especially if its not compatible with the current Windows OS your using. You then can use the Windows supplied built-in drivers. Newer Windows like Vista and 7 or later include several drivers that will install when you connect your device automatically. This is useful when there is no manufacture support available.


Controller Drivers:
USB devices tend to like to have the driver installed first, and then it will have you connect the USB device during or after installation. Gameport controllers usually require the controller hardware be connected before the driver/software is installed.


Combining Controls:
In v1.2 you can not use two USB devices plugged into separate ports unless you have special software to combine them into one Device ID. Multiple USB control devices (Joystick, RudderPedals, Throttle etc) connected can not be used since EAW can not recognize multiple control devices. However, control pads that can emulate keycode (Saitek's "PC-Dash") and so on will work between the keyboard and the PC tower and will work, so there is no problem with that configuration.

If you feel you need to "Combine" all your controllers (Flight controls: Secondary Throttle and/or Rudder Pedals) under ONE Joystick especially if they are detected by Windows as separate devices, you may want to see if your included Joystick software/driver will allow you to do that, some do, even controllers from different company's. For an example devices known to have this ability are the CH products with the use of the free CH Control Manager software, which makes Windows and therefore games see them as one controller, it allows EAW, where you cannot specify what axis does what in game, to see and use both stick and pedals.

If your controllers software does not support "Combining" or "Combo Drivers" try some free software that combines all your controls into one virtual controller, thus allowing EAW (especially v1.2) to easily detect your controls as being built on one Joystick (One DEVICE ID). Try; "UJR - Universal Joystick Remapper" by: evilC with "vJoy software" by: Shaul  or  "VJoy Virtual Joystick Driver" by: Headsoft.


Chain-Linked Option:
The other way around "Combining" without special software if you use multiple controllers is to have a setup where the controllers physically connect (plug-in) to each other (chain-linked) and only one connection (one cable) goes to the computer tower (such as a Stick, Throttle and Rudder Pedals combo). You'll have the most luck and fastest setup with this configuration.

However, its possible for a USB and Gameport set of controls (such as a USB Joystick and a Gameport Rudder Pedals or USB pedals with a gameport compatible stick) to co-exist in the stock v1.2 game...(Also note rudder pedals that use analog technology are not supposed to be compatible with digital joysticks, but I find it all really depends on the manufacture, driver and software these companies include.)

Some newer Hardware Control Boards that have come out in the last few years or so, also "link" all the controls into the unit as a single Device ID...


Assigning Device ID Option:
Some software that may come in handy if you have multiple gaming devices attached to your computer and have the problem of having to deal with "Joystick IDs" with HOTAS setups is called JoyID's (or PJPJoyIDs) written by Paul. It's a nice utility which allows switching of IDs so you can place them in an list order you can use with EAW since EAW is programmed in a way that it will only read input from a Joystick with a DEVICE ID of 1. This program will only work correctly when you are using the old, so called deprecated Windows Controller API, example; You must have Windows Joystick=1 set in your eaw.ini file. (Note: DirectInput API (Windows Joystick=0) ignores IDs and are assigned "random" ports, by random I mean I'm unsure at this point how DX assigns port numbers).


Down Grade Stick:
I find that most set ups have a problem with extra Rudder Pedals (or Throttle) when the Joystick already has a Twist-Handle (or Throttle) Built-in, Thus EAW gets confused and doesn't allow either device to function (or properly). I find this happens with v1.2, but not all the time...This is because Windows/EAW supports 6Axis, if your Primary Flight Stick has Rudder and Throttle built in, Its ideal to use those, other wise down grade your stick.

You may in, very rare situations need to “downgrade” your primary stick to fool Windows and the game when it goes to detect your controls that you don't have a Twist Handle or Throttle axis on your Joystick (even though it really does), thus allowing your secondary rudder pedals or throttle to work. You do this either via your controllers software by turning off your Rudder and/or Throttle on your primary Joystick, but only if the manufacture's software allows this. This will now allow your secondary Rudder Pedals or Throttle to work in EAW if there was a problem before.

If your controllers software doesn't allow you to do this then you have to do it through Windows installed devices. You remove your stick and add in a Generic joystick... configuring it as a Generic 2 or 3 axis stick, this will effectively remove either the Throttle and/or Rudder feature of your Joystick allowing your secondary Rudder Pedals or Throttle to work in EAW. If your stick has Force feedback, using a generic driver will disable FF support.


EAW works with Joysticks with 15-pin Gameport Plug ends that connects to your sound card or Motherboard. The Sound Card connection can be unreliable on older ones before 1998. However if you have one Gameport on your Sound Card and one on your motherboard, you normally would disable your motherboards Gameport/On Board Sound through your motherboards Bios, if not there then through Windows Devices, otherwise you will most likely have conflicts and your hardware won't work as designed. External/Hardware Cards are almost always the better source for sound and usually better support for your Gameport (made in 1998 or after). Note: Official Windows Gameport driver support lasted up to Windows XP, ended before Windows Vista.


Game Cable to USB:
If you have an adapter on your older Joysticks 15-pin Game cable end to turn it into a USB end, It may not work. If your going to use one of these adapters, insure it's designed for your particular brand and model Joystick for best reliability rather than a universal standard adapter. Some are just cables which require the Joystick to have USB technology already built into the Joysticks hardware, typically these joysticks included such a cable when they where new. (they where Gameport to USB ready). The more fancy adapters have electronic chips inside of them to enhance the old game port controller where needed and supply a USB end. Other chipped cables only allow for the Analog portion of the joystick to function. Do extensive research on the stick you intend to buy a cable converter/adapter for. To get you headed in the right direction search the internet for the "3DP-Vert" and "FFB-Vert" projects for building electronic USB adapters for Sidewinder digital and force feedback legacy gameport joysticks.


Hot Swapping Controls:
Unplugging and changing Joysticks around to other ports is relatively speaking, not a good idea since Windows looses track of the proper settings for a controller once its disconnected; such as list order and sometimes calibrations. Detection may have been improved in more modern Windows versions (above XP), however I recommend once you get the controllers working that you leave them plugged in, unless of course a malfunction requires you to unplug and replug in the controller while the computer is on, usually this is instructed by Windows errors. Further, although USB type controllers are suppose to be more reliable in hot swapping, I still find it best to leave the controllers connected based on everything I have learned about Joysticks and their ID. Caution should be made to have your controllers correctly 'in-place' before running EAW again. Otherwise you run the risk of EAW defaulting your key assignments.


Setup In Game First/Profile Software:
You can remap virtually any function from with-in EAW. Bear in mind that EAW "doesn't like" some stick profile software, so if you are using special profile software, it might work, or then again it might not! Some people have great success with no problems, others find it better to just go ahead and use EAW's remapping directly. So remember to setup your controllers buttons first in game or through the eaw.ini file without running the special controller profile software, only resort to the sticks software if the stick has functions that won't work from within the game itself, but this is no guarantee EAW with continue to recognize your controller in flight once the profile software is used.


Gaming Keyboards/Mice/Keypads:
In stock EAW, these USB Gaming devices tend to cause problems with EAW detecting your primary Joystick. Make sure again that your Joystick is listed as Device ID1 in Windows. If the Gaming Keyboard/Mouse or extra Keypad insists on being ID1, then you'll have to either uninstall/disconnect them so EAW can detect your flight Joystick controller.


USB Joystick Disconnects From Windows:
If Windows looses connection with your Joystick once in a while. In Windows XP go to Windows Device Manager and in turn click on the "Root USB Hub" that your Joystick is plugged into and click properties. Choose the "Power Management Tab" and uncheck "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power". In Windows 10 go to Control panel>Devices and Printers>Right Click on your Controller>Select Properties>Move to the Hardware Tab>USB Input Device>Properties>Change Settings>Power Management>Uncheck; Allow the computer to turn off this device. Another option is to move the stick to use a USB PCI Slot Card if you have one rather than the motherboards ports, these are usually better hardware than some MB USB port chips sets.


Joystick Not Recognized At All:
First of all if your joystick is not being recognized at all here's a little tidbit from Microprose: Please note that in version 1.1 , in the EAW.INI file there's a parameter for Windows Joystick=0 Change that to =1 and many joystick problems will go away...


Joystick Grayed Out (Axis Not Responding):
Possible cause - 1) If your running EAW using the shortcuts Compatibility Tab Settings by selecting any of the options, for an example Win95 or Win98/ME, your Joystick will loose all it's axis functions and only the buttons may work or the Joystick will no longer be recognized by the game at all (Grayed out). EAW does NOT require the Compatibility Tab to run properly, Windows has its own compatibility fixes built in for the eaw.exe. See my Manually Install Help Document for more information.

You'll have to remove those check marks from the Compatibility Tab if you want EAW to recognize your controller. Do these TWO things even if it seems pointless: Right click into properties on your SHORTCUT to the game and see if they are set. Now right click the eaw.exe file directly and see if your using any Compatibility settings there...
Note: Only Win2000 requires the Tab Compatibility Layer to run the game...with extra special manual settings for the Joystick to work correctly. See my Manually Install Help Document for Win2000 configuration for EAW.

Possible Cause - 2) Perhaps in the in-game configuration at the Controller Setup menu screen, your FLIGHT CONTROL has moved to the default KEYBOARD setting rather than STICK. This could happen if your joystick wasn't plugged in / installed or wasn't listed as ID1 at the time the game last loaded up. This can happen if you removed/swapped out your controls for another one at some point and you never reassigned the ID back to 1 in the Windows Game Controller settings. Note: You will have lost all your eaw.ini assigned controls as well if you ran the game under these conditions.

Otherwise, for older analog Joysticks, you may simply need to re-Calibrate.


Controls Messed Up/Plane Drifting Sideways:
Check to make sure that the setting for Windows Joystick=1 and not zero, this turns off the use of EAW's self joystick routine's and the game will use the Windows API Joystick routine. To enable this mode, go edit the eaw.ini, and find the section [CONTROLS], and change the line from "Windows Joystick=0" to "Windows Joystick=1".


The Joystick Pulls Or Acts Erratically In The Game:
If you have a joystick (especially an older Logitech), make sure that you get the latest drivers for it. Also make sure that the drivers for your sound card are up to date, especially if the gameport is used on it by your joystick.
Then adjust the sensitivity and dead zone for your joystick/flight control by editing the EAW.INI file. Try setting "Flight Sensitivity=0.90000" (the ideal will vary between 0.8 and 1.0) and "Dead Zone=2". These are extreme values and are mentioned here to help troubleshoot, if after you find these settings improve your issue, you may want to keep experimenting. See further down in the help document sections titles 'Dead Zone' and 'Flight Sensitivity' for clearer instructions.


POV Hat Not Working Properly:
If you have problem with your POV hat not working properly with your joystick (for example: it fires guns when a POV hat direction is pressed. This has happened with a CH Flightstick), you can use the non EAW joystick routines (by using Windows API Joystick routine). To enable this mode, go edit the eaw.ini, and find the section [CONTROLS], and change the line from "Windows Joystick=0" to "Windows Joystick=1"


Erratic View Changing Automatically:
If you have "Windows Joystick=1" entered in your eaw.ini file and no controller connected, Insure you have your controller plugged in before loading the game. (always have your controller plugged in and ready before loading the game).


No Keyboard or Joystick Buttons Working:
There seems there is a bug in EAW when sometimes the game will loose Keyboard and Stick Button input during Flight temporally. Entering the pilots map usually with the [M] Key and then escaping from there will return functions. This bug seems to occur very rarely and during online gaming most often. Another thing to remember to do is if your chatting in game, to remember to finally hit send, because your controls are ignored during the time you type.


No control over the Aircraft and can't escape from the game:
When you goto "Configure Game" - then "Control"; Flight Control, The Throttle Control, Rudder Control, and Camera Position settings are all locked in the Keyboard position meaning you can't change any of the above controls to any of the other options, then check your eaw.ini file; If you notice that all of the values for the assignable keys are blank, something got corrupt and you should delete your and start over. A new default .ini file will be generated next time you run the game.


Crash To Desktop at Mission Loading Screen:
Possible Cause, If you have a joystick configured in the game already and one time you goto load a mission but upon loading a new mission your stick is not plugged in / installed or is turned off at the loading fuel gauge / % complete screen, this could cause a Crash to Desktop. Once this happens you'll have to unplug your controller, wait a few seconds, and re-plug in your controller. Now reload the game and you must reconfigure your controller settings.


Crash To Desktop, FF:
When you go to fly and get a CTD, Its a possibility that the Force Feedback= setting in your eaw.ini is set to 1 (ON) and you don't have a joystick plugged in and/or the stick is not detected by eaw properly or your stick is not Force Feedback. Change that setting to 0 to fix this.


Win2K/WinXP and TARGETING Keys:
Under WinXP, EAW may loose the Targeting Key assignments, target closest and target next buttons on your Joystick....they reset to default once you leave the game...There are actually 6 keys that appear to be affected by this and the culprits are: TARGET NEXT ENEMY, TARGET PREVIOUS ENEMY, TARGET CLOSEST ENEMY, TARGET NEXT FRIENDLY, TARGET PREVIOUS FRIENDLY, TARGET NEXT workaround solution is to map only those commands with the software that comes with your stick...another is to use specific custom versions of EAW, such as the v1.26e patch (which is considered a v1.2)...


Fast Computers and Mouse Click Selections:
If you run the stock EAW 1.2 version or anything based on it (Including v1.26 and the FXEXE) you will find that Vista and newer Windows are too fast for the Multiplayer and Single Mission Parameter selections menu line. By this I mean when mouse clicking to make a selection change on those parameter screens, the selection with jump erratically. There has not been a fix found for this. You have to keep clicking more often until you get what you want.


Unwanted Entry's In The EAW.INI:
If your Controllers where working and suddenly stop one day; in WinXP,Vista,Win7/8/10 there is an issue with these Windows versions that sometimes there are duplicate control entry's listed at the end of your eaw.ini file. (This is possibly caused by Windows writing its own registry entry's for file locations...) Check your eaw.ini to see if it has duplicate functions listed after the last entry of ScreenCapture= Anything below that should be erased.


Manually Enter Controllers Entry's In The EAW.INI:
Remember you can open and edit the eaw.ini file to set your controllers up manually to make things easier. It won't work if you have to by-pass the grayed out Flight Control Options on the in game menu, you may be able to get your buttons to work but the axis part won't. Read this help document to gain further knowledge of what you can assign.


MicroProse Info From The User Manual:
To fly well, MPS recommend you use a joystick. They encourage the use of throttle controls and foot pedals (for the rudder). You cannot play if you use only keyboard controls. Use of a mouse is absolutely necessary, and a joystick comes in handy, too. In fact, we strongly recommend that you use both.

Calibration settings for joysticks and other hardware is taken from Windows data; if you installed the hardware correctly, you should have no need to recalibrate just for this game.

The Flight Control Setting in the Control Menu is the important one; it’s the main device for flying your aircraft. Selections for the other options might change or be limited depending on what you select here. In general, for instance, you cannot use the same devicet as both Flight Control and for controlling the external camera—the exception being that if your joystick is your flight control, you can use the joystick “hat” to maneuver the camera.

To customize (or completely reconfigure) the controls for the game, select Advanced. This option gives you control over all four groups of controls—View controls, Flight controls, Weapon controls, and general Game controls. When you’re done, click OK to save your changes or Cancel to undo them.


*For further troubleshooting continue reading this document from top to bottom...


(This list is to show only the special configurations known to work. It's not a complete list, but it will give you an idea what Sticks, Throttles and Pedals work together and how. This list is from stock EAW v1.2 testing).

CHProduct (analog)Flightstick Gameport and CH (analog)Pedals Gameport
CHProduct Combatstick USB and USB CH Pro Pedals (use the control manager to map it as one device)
CHProduct FighterStick USB and USB CH Pro Pedals (use the control manager to map it as one device)
CHProduct Fighterstick (analog version) CHProduct Pro Throttle
CHProduct F-16 Combatstick, prothrottle, and chpedals or pro pedals. (all analog)
CHProduct F-16 Combatstick Gameport and USB CHProduct Pro Pedals
Logitech Wingman Force USB (no twist handle) and analog Gameport CHProduct Pro Pedals
Logitech Wingman Extreme 3D and analog Thrustmaster Elite Rudder Pedals
Microsoft Sidewinder 3D Pro (tested on WinXP with generic 4-button joystick w/POV and throttle option, no rudder.)
Microsoft Sidewinder Force Feedback (gameport type connected to Simped Rudder Pedals to gameport)
Microsoft Sidewinder Force Feedback 2 (tested on Win7/Win10 with built-in generic drivers)
Saitek X36 Joystick USB chain-linked X35 Throttle USB (Windows Joystick=0 in eaw.ini)
Saitek AV8R-01 (with Mode switch to OFF)
Saitek X36F Gameport chain-linked X35T Throttle
Saitek X36F USB chain-linked X35T Throttle
Saitek X45 USB Digital Stick chain-linked Throttle combo.
Saitek X52 Pro USB chain-linked Throttle.
Saitek Pro Flight Cessna Yoke chain-linked Throttle Quadrant chain-linked Rudder Pedals
Simped Rudder Pedals (plug a stick/throttle combo into y-cable gameport and connect to gameport)
Suncom HOTAS (shows as a "Three Axis Controller + Rudder Pedals" in Windows)
Suncom F15E Talon (on "B" setting w/USB adapter)
Suncom F15E Talon and Throttle with CH Pro Pedals
Suncom F15E Talon and Suncom SFS Throttle
Suncom SFS Flight Controller chain-linked Throttle (combo) connected through CH Pro Pedals (gameport)
Thrustmaster F16 FLCS and WCS MKII Throttle. Set Black Switch to Analog & Red to Digital.
Thrustmaster USB Top Gun Fox 2 Pro HOTAS
Thrustmaster USB HOTAS Cougar
Thrustmaster F22 Pro chain-linked F16 Throttle Quadrant System(TQS) chain-linked TM Rudder Control System(RCS)*
Track IR 4 (used with "mouse emulation")

*Ever wonder which rudder pedals are actually featured as a no-named picture in the official EAW User Manual on Page 16? I'm almost sure they are the 'ThrustMaster Rudder Control System' PC Game Pedals that where made first in 1993-then years later.


EAW has no built-in support, but if it has a mouse-look mode that the TrackIR can use to control with your head. This will probably feel the most realistic for looking around with the advantage of having one hand totally free at all times. You'll need some time to get use to free view movement, cause in forward view you'll need to keep your head always fixed when engaging a target because small movement can offset your line of sight on the cross-hairs so you may want to use a button to disable the mouse view. This will give you a stable view to Aim good. To get the view to re-center without disabling it you can press and release SNAP REAR to reset the TRACKIR view to center.

In EAW under CONTROLLER SETUP make sure the CAMERA POSITION is selected for MOUSE. You may need to SWAP MOUSE Y axis. Also you may need to adjust the EAW camera sensitivity to low as possible.

In the TRACKIR software Choose MOUSE EMULATOR to bring up a window. In that window check ‘X AXIS AUTO PANNING’ and move the slide bar all the way to the right. This should give you a value of 95.

Notice: You must load up the TRACKIR software and then the MOUSE EMULATOR program TIRMouse.exe before you start up EAW. (The Mouse Emulator program is located in C:\Program Files\NaturalPoint\TrackIR)


This area of the document is about information of the eaw.ini [CONTROLS] sections. These four settings are covered in my Inside The eaw.ini Help Document. And for more information of other areas of the CONTROL section, please keep reading down in this document.

Camera Sensitivity=
Swap Mouse X=0
Swap Mouse Y=0
Windows Joystick=0


The Joystick is assigned for Flight Control and Rudder is Rudder and Throttle is Throttle. These are normally setup from within EAW Controller Setup screen; all set to the near left setting. There may come a time you'll have to move these around to something else, but it's unlikely...

[Remappable Keys]



The joystick Dead Zone is the area in the center where the joystick does not respond, a dead zone around the stick axis. The setting for it determines how far you have to move the stick before control input takes place, any range of movement of the joystick's axes in that zone the aircraft will not respond. The benefits for higher settings allows for you to fly straight with your hands off the stick if you or your joystick happens to not be so steady. The benefits of a lower setting allows your control inputs to take effect sooner.

Look at the big picture when adjusting all your stick settings since it all depends on your Flight Sensitivity, your own joystick quality or condition, and your own flying ability. You may have to adjust your Dead Zone up or down, in addition to Flight Sensitivity. A lower Dead Zone setting reduces the amount of Dead Zone, allowing control inputs to take place sooner, a higher setting increases the amount of Dead Zone, delaying the time when input begins to take place. Tweaking the DeadZone setting can often help to smooth out a shaky stick or improve response on a sluggish one. If you can't fly straight, raise the DZ.

This setting in the eaw.ini is an overall value that measures how much you have to move your stick before it sends input to the game. There is no in game slider for this. 6 would be a small deadzone and 10 would be a larger deadzone. The larger the deadzone, the further you have to move the joystick to make the aircraft respond. If you have a good quality joystick that holds its center position well then you only need a small deadzone as long as you have a steady hand (0 min). A Value of 4 or less seems pretty good for modern Joysticks. Higher values are going to need more movement to get that input sent (20 max).

You will find changing this value will affect your plane's behavior a lot, you may get tighter turns and better response in Pitch and Roll the lower it is. Try a value of 3 to 5 to cut some of that engine torque or the occasional side rudder. Default value for EAWv1.2 is 10 (Middle Range). The range is from 0 to 20.


In general I would recommend a higher Deadzone setting to begin with until you have gotten a better feel for the Flight Models. Then gradually change your settings to the improved settings of a high Flight Sensitivity / Low DeadZone setting. See the next section to set and test Flight Sensitivity and other Joystick settings.




This slider is located in the games control setup section. This adjusts how sensitive your stick will be with the Flight Model on all axis at once. (You may also have stick software which allows you to adjust stick sensitivity, this is different than EAW's Flight Model Sensitivity.) Flight Sensitivity controls the amount of control input you apply to the FM from moving the stick by any amount AFTER it passes through the Dead Zone (read the previous section on the sticks DeadZone for guidance). If your stick is overly sensitive, a very slight movement will result in a great deal of control response. On the other hand, an extremely low sensitivity setting will result in very little control input for the same amount of stick movement. You will find physically individual models/brands of joysticks are more or less sensitive than others, and that these settings have to be tweaked for the different sticks. Stick Sensitive (as found in your stick software) is similar but not the same and can also effect the input response.

If you use different custom FMs sets (a group of plane parameters modified by the same persons), you will find that every time you fly with a different set of FMs it may be difficult to adjust to them. This is because they each have their own handling characteristics and each FM set responds differently to control inputs. This can also be an issue from plane to plane. Meaning you may need to adjust this sensitivity per plane, every time you change planes. (Note: it's possible with the newer source code modified games to use a mix batch of FMs, so this becomes even more important).

The lower settings will give you a more stable, less prone to stall, but slower response to your inputs, not to mention losing some of your planes ability to turn tight. The higher setting will give you a tighter turn, more prone to stall, but faster response to your inputs. You must have sensitivity high enough to give you full control deflection: if it's too low you can't turn as fast as you should (a very bad thing in a dogfight). However, if it's set too high the plane will be very unstable and it'll be hard to line up a shot - especially in 'pilot full zoom mode'.

You have to find the sweet spot where you can maneuver more freely without having to worry about stalls and spins at critical moments. The more realistic the flight model and the more realistic the in game settings are, a lower setting you may find will be better. You may find giving up a little turn performance for a more stable plane is best. This will help avoid Spins and Blackouts while sacrificing some performance of a tight turn. A less sensitive configuration is at an advantage at higher altitudes because planes lose turn performance and stall earlier.

The lowest setting by the in game slider is 0.800000 and the highest value by the in game slider is 1.200000 The default value is 1.000000. For finer control of this setting you can manually enter values in the eaw.ini file under;

Flight Sensitivity= 

The maximum manually entered value for FM sensitivity is 1.5000. That should mean that .75 is actually only halfway and 1.0 is two thirds of full sensitivity. The higher the sensitivity setting, the more response you get from the controls for a given amount of movement.


To over come some of the learning curve when using many FM sets/or Planes is to use the current and simplest way is to write down separate eaw.ini Dead Zone and Flight Sensitivity values for each the FMs/or plane type you have/or use. You may go as far as having several copies of the eaw.ini file saved already with the appropriate settings to use for a particular Flight Model Modification.

If you use sub-folders for FM sets (most older custom sets require subfolders), then go and find your primary eaw.ini file then copy it into each of your other installed FM set sub-folders, so that when you enable a particular set from its sub-folder into the main games root folder that you want to fly (via a manager program perhaps), you will also enable that particular ini file with the appropriate settings for that particular Flight Model Modification. (Anytime you work on these ini files, make sure you work on it inside its own sub-folder. This way you will be able to go into each individual ini file and tweak your joystick sensitivity and dead zone settings so that it responds properly per aircraft Flight Model set.)


If you find that your over controlling and spinning out too often. It maybe best for you to set the slider to the lowest value of 0.8000 to begin with and work your way back up from there. You may find a slight adjustment set at 0.9000 may seem comfortable for most planes. Some Planes/FM's are more forgiving than others so, experiment! If you feel you need more guidance keep reading and follow the directions below. 

A Introduction Setting:
Set the Flight Sensitivity Slider in the game to around two thirds (right side) for now and your Joystick software Stick/Axis Sensitivities to their default. See how the plane of your choice behaves with these settings. Later on, once you've tried the game out a bit, you can take the time to do some flight testing to get the all sensitivities just right.

In general I would recommend a lower Flight Sensitivity setting to begin with until you have gotten a better feel for the Flight Models. Then gradually change your settings. Try the next test with your current settings, instructions follow.


Quick Roll Rate Test:
To get an accurate representation of what the flight model is supposed to act like for each aircraft, it should be tested by roll rate: If your Flight Sensitivity is reduced too far, then your plane's ailerons will not produce the kind of response they should---so your plane won't roll as fast as it's capable of. Also with too high of DeadZone, the roll will not begin as quickly as it should. If you don't have a Sweet spot set by now, your at a disadvantage. See the next set of instructions below.

Finding The Sweet Spot:
There really is no general setting for any one Joystick, Plane FM and Slider Settings with Joystick Software Settings. There is only a very small sweet spot in the FM slider movement which seems to be perfect, where you find this 'zone' depends to your system. Here is the way to find it:

1-Set the sensitivity slider in EAW to max (right side), make a test flight in a 109E4 and pull the stick backward, if the plane stalls very easy, it means your flight is functioning normally go to step 2. If the plane seems stiff and is difficult at stalling, you need to increase the Joystick Sensitivity out of the game and in your Joystick Software.

2. Set the sensitivity slider in EAW to min (left side), make a test flight in a 109E4 and pull the stick backward, if the plane is very stiff and stable, it means your flight is functioning normally go to step 3. If it stalls easy and turns tight, you need to reduce the Joystick Sensitivity out of the game in your Joystick Software.

3-Now that you have the Joystick Software settings corrected, set the sensitivity-slider in EAW to max (to the right side) and get a stopwatch and time a 109E4, at 100m from the ground and make test turns with full power, turning as tight as you possible (full stick deflection) without stalling, but almost (When the HUD Display in the lower left is Yellow.) 

4-Stop the timer at the end of a 360degree turn. The E4 will require about 16 seconds at 225km/h with 100m altitude and should stall late while in a constant turn.  (You should get at around 230-235km/h about a 15sec duration for the full 360degree turn.)

5-Before each test afterwards reduce the sensitivity (slider left, notch by notch) until the plane starts to lose its Turn Performance (until you notice turn rate falling off or spins) with elevators at there maximum.

6-Once you found the spin, up the sensitivity (slider right, just by one notch). This should now give you the full benefit, the sweet spot for that particular plane, joystick and settings.

Note: If you get a new stick, you'll need to go through the process again.



Force Feedback works very well with EAW, It's nice to feel the forces as you fire the guns or start the engine up! The best part of the feedback is it alerts you from bullet hits from the rear. You can even judge when your going to stall as the plane is buffeting, this allows you to push your plane a tab bit more: this is a huge advantage, particularly when you are learning your planes Flight Model with specifically set difficulty settings. Most players that have gone from a normal stick to a FF stick have often wondered how they could have ever flown the game without it, its truly something to consider getting.

The rest of the senses of the FF just add to the excitement!! True FF sticks like the MS Sidewinder use two motors to drive the stick, one for the X axis and one for Y. They can be programmed freely in games to move in any way you want. Distance, speed and force are fully programmable so in effect you'd have far more then 100 possible movements and that's exactly how it is programmed in EAW. European Air War has been programmed to work with any DirectX-compatible Force Feedback Joystick, and has been tested by MicroProse with Microsoft's Sidewinder Force Feedback Pro, Logitech's Wingman Force, and CHProduct's ForceFX. I've tested it with Microsoft's Sidewinder Force Feedback 2. (Note: Versions before EAW v1.2 disabled force feedback on some Logitech Joysticks, patch to v1.2 to resolve the issue.) Note: One lacking feature is that the rudder control on most if not all sticks, don't have FF, maybe some rudder pedals have, but I don't recall ever seeing any.

Newer, more commonly manufactured Force Feedback equivalent sticks use what is called 'Rumble' or 'Force Vibration', These sticks usually use a spring for centering (instead of tension from motors). The motors they use for vibration are smaller than what full fledge FF Sticks use. However, these FF equivalent sticks still are using the same FF instructions from the game to provide low grade feedback to you stick. Don't let that keep you from getting a rumble or vibration stick as some feedback is better than none. Note: Realize different games and sticks from different manufactures will behave differently than EAW or a full fledge FF stick.

FF sticks will provide spring centering resistances with motor tension. The physical resistance in a normal stick uses a Spring. The Spring is there to give you some resistance and automatically centers your stick. You only need enough spring tension to return the stick to the center perfectly every time. Any more tension just creates extra hassles like wrestling for control of the aircraft, sometimes resulting in busted stick shafts.


In the Games Setup Control menu, three Force Feedback options are listed; "Disabled," "Arcade," and "Realistic,". If these options are all grayed out, your joystick does not support Force Feedback.

If your joystick supports Force Feedback but you don't want to use it, select "Disabled,"(0). The other two options, "Arcade"(1) and "Realistic,"(2) set different types of Force Feedback responses. "Realistic" places an emphasis on the forces of flying (such as engine stalls and G-force effects); "Arcade" on the other hand, will exaggerate 'action' forces (such as firing your guns and taking damage). This is in the eaw.ini file, below it is set to FF ON: Arcade Mode.

Force Feedback=1

Beneath these settings is a slide bar entitled "Force Feedback Gain," which sets the overall strength of Force Feedback responses from Low to High. This One setting applies to both Arcade and Realistic forces. You may want to increase it when using the Realistic setting and reduce it when using the Arcade setting. As Realistic will be softer and Arcade will be meaner. I find it's best with EAW to use the default force values with your Joysticks Software, and allow the in-game slider to adjust the force strength. Its just something to keep in mind, It all really depends on you and how you want the game to behave. In the eaw.ini file you can manually set a value. Default is 7500, max is 10000

Force Feedback Gain=7500

The Forces:
(That I noticed)

MG Fire (force depends on cal)
Cannon Fire (forece depends on mm)
Rocket Fire
Control Surfaces (delays)
Wind Rushing over the Ailerons (Increased Speed/Wind; Structural)
Tight Turns/G-force; Structural
Stalling (Before actual stall)
Gear Fully Locked
Lift Off on Take off
Wheels Touch Down on Landing
Stick Centering
Control Surfaces Compress (Tougher Stick Centering at Higher Speeds)
Stalls (Stick Centering Force is turned off)
Engine Torque Engine Start (depends on type of engine)
Bullet/Damage Hits
Bird Impacts
Flak Hits (different forces)
Belly Landing On Water


Binding Keyboard Functions to Key Assignments are best done from within the Games Advanced Control Configuration as duplicate entry's are watched by the program and it won't let you add them. Start the game, then go to:

"CONFIGURE GAME" > "CONTROL" > "Advanced".

Across the top should be the listings for the "View", "Flight", "Weapon", and "Game" sections. You should already be on the "View" options. To change a mapped function, just click on the function you want to change. It should turn red. Then hit the key on your keyboard, or press the button on your joystick (including the hat switch) that you want to map that function to. If that key/button is already in use, EAW will tell you.

To remove an assignment of a key without assigning a new function from within the Game, select the function you want to remove and then press the [Pause Break] key as the new assignment, this will remove and blank out the key assignment.

You can also do this in the .ini file, but it is more complicated.
See the section below titled 'EXTRA NOTES About CONTROLS' if you want to try.

Backup Note:
Just remember once you have configured your controls, make a backup of your new eaw.ini file (its in your game folder) somewhere for safe keeping. Otherwise when a mistake happens with the game or the file (It will happen!) you can easily loose all your settings, EAW is weird about something's like this. It's because EAW does a new redetect of your hardware during each run.


Provided here are two examples to help you get familiar with assigning buttons. Then additional instructions to help you out written afterwards. (To assign buttons to functions from within the game, go to CONFIGURE GAME then CONTROLS then ADVANCED.)

Joystick with 4 buttons and 4 way hat Example:
This is an example assignment of a Joystick with only a 4-way Hat and four buttons. Just drop in to your eaw.ini to replace the default keys. See how they work out for you. If you have a 8-way Hat, you may want to add either standard or snap views after testing. The urge to assign FIRE ALL GUNS to a single button should be avoided, it actually uses much more ammo since it's firing the Machine guns and Cannons at the same time.

FRONT VIEW=Joystick_Btn_2


All About Your Control Choices:
Now that you read all that above and I showed you some examples of what functions to place on your controllers buttons. It's up to you to decide what you need best, read on!

Situational Awareness (S.A.)
In order to survive in a dogfight you have to have know where all the other planes are in the sky; as the battle progresses the situation changes very quickly, You will get focused on one or two bandits.

To stay on top of the fight you have to continuously jump around between several different views - simultaneously using target functions to see who is where, and what their speed and altitude is (HUD data). Good S.A. is one of the main skills which makes a decent pilot; bad S.A. is the main reason rookie pilots get killed. Before you can even begin to develop this skill, you need to make sure that you have all the game functions you need at your fingertips.

In Flight Display Data (HUD)
Start a game and check you have all the following functions switched ON. Using the Game Pause function ([ALT P]) can help you relax as your examining each display type.

  • TARGET DIRECTOR DISPLAY ON/OFF=ALT D Toggles the display of a X Marker around the edge of the screen which shows you the direction of the bandit when he is not in your direct view (EX: off screen when you are in cockpit view, it only pops up when he's off screen)
  • TARGET RANGE DISPLAY ON/OFF=ALT R Toggles the display of target range. You'll need to get a bandit in view to see range.
  • TARGET ID DISPLAY ON/OFF=ALT I Toggles the display of target name or plane type. You'll need to get a bandit in view to see name and plane type.
  • TARGET INFO DISPLAY ON/OFF=ALT T Toggles the target HUD (bottom right, in red)
  • FLIGHT INFO DISPLAY ON/OFF=ALT F Toggles your HUD (bottom left, in green)
  • TARGET BOX DISPLAY ON/OFF=ALT O Toggles the display of a square box on the target. Its Best left off if you have the other displays turned on as it gets a bit crowded making difficult to see the actual targeted plane.

Keyboard & Joystick Setup
The keyboard is a secondary controller while playing European Air War. Keystroke commands are most commonly used to change the viewpoint while flying, to enter text in certain fields (naming pilots, for example), and to control things like the throttles, landing gear, flaps and brakes. Mostly anything you don't have assigned to a Joystick or an other controller. Once you have your Joystick/Flight Controls and Buttons mapped out, the rest of the keys can remain at default. You then can use the available and updated EAW Quick Reference Sheets or Key Cards to refer too during flight.

Below is a list of the most important game commands (ie views and target buttons). Try to get as many of these functions as possible set somewhere on your stick. Buying a stick with lots of buttons increases your options. The easy to find keys such as the spacebar, enter key, and the mouse buttons are next in line once you've used up all your stick buttons.

You can just go ahead and try things out with default keyboard settings, but if you find you are having a tough time, unable to keep track of the fight (and you will), get your stick setup with lots of views and targeting functions. You'll never be-able to play effectively if you only use the front and rear views. Also if you don't learn to switch through the many Targeting functions other than the standard [T] key (Target Closest), like the one for finding Friendly Wingman, it will make team play difficult. You also need to know how to use Flaps and Gear quickly, as well as the Map and Cockpit Zoom. All these options available to you are needed to be successful and to improve your skills.

The minimum what a personal configuration needs to provide to the player:
1. The player needs to be able to look around quickly, to spot and keep the target in sight.
2. The player needs to be able to switch from target to target. Closest enemy, next enemy, closest friend and next friend. When first learning, if you don't play team games, 'Target closest enemy' and 'Target next enemy' are enough. 3. The player needs to be able to use all his Controls without effort: like Elevator, Aileron, Rudder, Throttle, Flaps, Undercarriage (Gear), Drop-tank release, choose Bombs/Rockets and release them.

View Flying Styles
Everyone has their own style of flying, ie the way they use different combinations of views and target buttons.

Almost everyone shoots from the straight-ahead cockpit view although you can shoot from padlock if you like a challenge. The Veteran marksmen will be shooting from one of the zoom modes in cockpit view. If you choose the zoomed option try shooting with your plane and the enemy plane up close with your sight zoomed in only one or two steps for best view.


Internal Views
You will benefit from setting your views up on your controllers hat/pov switch. A Good joystick will have 8-way functions. Snap Views are ideal, you can mix those in with standard views too if you want. Note: SNAP VIEWS have shifted view points (added in 1.28a/c) in the Virtual Cockpit to see 'around' the planes pilot seat and structure better than standard views. Also all snap views in the stock game where designed by MicroProse to overlap each other as well so you don't miss a thing.

*standard [F1] Front view (2D Cockpit, in the cockpit looking straight ahead) New pilots who always fly in the forward facing cockpit view get killed quickly. So if you're in a 1 v 1 engagement, you can get by with just forward view, rear snap, and padlock toggle. You may want to have the front up view also so you can see above the front windshield of your cockpit during turns.

*padlock toggle view (locks your view on whatever plane you have targeted; toggle might be best) This is often the best solution for newbie's and people without a 8-way Hat Switch. It provides a simple setup that the player can use to automatically follow the target. Padlock can be confusing or disorientated in the beginning, but with the right configuration and after some hours of usage things become easier.


*snap views The 'snap views' consist in 9 different keys (By default the snap views are programmed to the Keyboards Numpad.), every key alone represents one view direction (front, front right, front left, right, left, rear, rear right, rear left, 90° up). If you push one of these keys, the view will snap to that direction and if you release the key, it will snap back to the front view. Snapping Back automatically is very important to keep orientation. If you always fly within the cockpit, you'll be using snap views to look around and target buttons or keys to identify planes. With a lot of planes in the sky, you'll need to jump around all the different views regularly.

MOST IMPORTANT regarding the snap views is, to know that you can combine the 'snap view 90° up' button, with any of the horizontal snap views, to get a 45° up view!!  Example: Push 'snap view right' + 'snap view 90° up' at same time and you will get = 'snap view 45° up right'.

To make it possible for you to look at every view direction, you must use all 9 functions, programming the 8 horizontal 'snap views' to your Joysticks 8 way Hat switch(POV) and then set the ninth function, 'snap view 90° up' to a button on your stick base, which you can reach easily without your finger leaving the throttle slider (this is also very important to maintain a good dogfight!). With this common view system setup you can look all around while fighting, easily!! like the following:

EAW.ini [Remappable Keys]


SNAPVIEW UP=Joystick_Btn_7


POV can also be assigned to emulate the "mouse view(pan view)". You will most likely want to tone down the sensitivity for the camera to its minimum, this is so that the movements of the POV switch are soft and not abrupt.


*mouse view can be used to look around easily, keeping more than one target in sight at the same time and it works well in 'Full Realistic" Missions without icons. However the disadvantage is one of your hands is tide up, rather than being ready on the keyboard or the stick buttons.

*zoom in and zoom out (magnifies your gunsight - great for long range shots)

*instrument view or a snap view (in a long battle, you need to watch your engine temperature; if you're not sure what's what turn on instrument labels with [ALT F1], but note that instrument labels don't work in the virtual cockpit.)

*cockpit toggle (switches cockpit off so you can see without the cockpit being displayed, allows you to see more.)


External Views
Some people don't think it's very fair to use external views. Some just don't like them. A lot of very good pilots always fly within the cockpit. It's up to you. A real life pilot would have much better visibility than you can get on a computer monitor: external views sometimes seem to compensate for this. If you use external views, you probably don't need all the snap views on your hat switch. This frees the hat up for other functions such as zoom in and out. However, you MUST at least have the 'rear snap view' (or standard rear view) somewhere on your stick.

With an external style, you'll probably be using the external camera view ([F9] and mouse pan) a lot to look around when its safe to do so, when there is no near bandits around - as always, clicking away with target buttons to identify planes (assigning some of the target commands to your mouse buttons can be a good way to work with mouse pan but I'd advise keeping 'target closest enemy' and 'target next enemy' on your stick where you can get at them more quickly).

A good technique is to jump around between player/target (to see the bandit), [F9] (to fly the plane), and [F1] (with toggle cockpit set off [Keypad .]) to shoot or chase. You'll also need to use padlock occasionally - eg in a close quarters scissors fight - so keep it on your stick buttons somewhere or use the default quick key [Numpad *].

*[F9] view (External view following your plane - also cycles through other planes in the game. If you get killed early in a sweep for example, you can watch the rest of the fight from the perspective of any plane in the game.) Its useful for taking off or landing to see what you're airplane is doing and to see how close to the ground you really are.

*mouse pan (in [F9], the mouse moves your viewpoint around) In combat you'll also want to use this (with your left hand for the mouse and stick in the right hand).

*player / target view (external view) Is good in dogfights since it gives you a very clear picture of the two planes' relative positions.

*target / player view (same as player / target but from the other end) Is good for evading a bandit close on your six, or to quickly check what he's up to.

Some sticks have a trackball - if you've got one it's ideal for the camera pan.

(There are also a few other external views, but these are not so relevant for fighter combat). The [F12] key (movie mode) can be used to look around at the action. If you're not in the heat of battle, you can put your plane on autopilot and watch the action unfold, or just admire the view. Use the mouse to move around and zoom in and out. You may find yourself spending as much time just looking around this way as actually flying. Just like watching a good WWII movie!

Targeting Functions:
(in order of importance)
You need the 'Target Buttons' in a quick reachable configuration. Try to get some of the more important ones on your sticks upper buttons. Since we often play with Display Huds On, the player will need to be able to switch from target to target and wingman to wingman and sometimes from ground target to ground target. Of course this is pretty unrealistic in WWII, but it helps to overcome virtual sight problems, ex-specially for newbie's and snap viewers, this is the only way to play.

*TARGET CLOSEST ENEMY (absolutely vital: you've got to know where the closest bandit is)
*TARGET NEXT ENEMY (when held down this target function will cycle through all the enemy)
*TARGET NEXT FRIENDLY (when held down this target function will cycle through all the friendly)

Here are the other Targeting Functions available to you and are not normally needed on your Joystick.


Other Important Buttons On The Stick:
(in order of importance)
Try to get some of the more important ones on the base buttons of your stick.

*flaps up
*flaps down
Note: Planes often turn better with usage of the flaps. Having the buttons on your Joystick for quick access is ideal. *additional guns On/Off
*landing gear toggle
Note: The gear causes drag and can be used in a critical situation to help slow the plane down quickly.
*zoom in and zoom out

Important Buttons On The Stick For Online Play:
(in order of importance)

Padlock toggle
cockpit toggle
Target closest, next, prev enemy
4 snap views
All Guns (Z)
clear padlock, target
target next friendly
flaps up
flaps down
gear up/down
snap instrument view

As an unorthodox configuration you can use hat switchs for functions you need quickly in a dogfight--zoom, cockpit toggle, etc. instead of using it for views; instead follow your opponent with padlock, and use the snap views in the base of the stick to keep track of your orientation.

Some players may want to use the hat switch as a 8-views option with another button used for UP, which would allow 16 views in total, when UP and one of the other views are pressed.

Don't take the above ideas as being the only ideas - experiment offline until you have a configuration which works for you.




This section of the document is to provide information about miscellaneous control/key usage.


Modifying the EAW.INI:
You can also assign or map keys and buttons in the eaw.ini file, but it is more complicated than doing it within the game. If you want to give it a try, familiarize yourself with the structure of the .ini file. Open your eaw.ini file in your games folder with Notepad and read the information in this section of this document. Also a good read is my Inside The EAW.INI File Help Document which explains in brief some more aspects of the controls.


Joystick EAW.INI Commands:
Here is how you type out the Joystick functions for the Remappable Keys section in the EAW.INI file that opens with Notepad.

At this point in time you may want to map button 1 to FIRE SELECTED GUNS and button 2 for FIRE SELECTED WEAPONS. The rest of the buttons you can map to other things you need quickly during combat.


This is how a 4 way hat is typed out.
You may want to map these to the views, snap views or a function.


This is how the extra 8 way hat is typed out.



Lesser Known Key WORDS;
These are the WORDS you will find in the eaw.ini file when you open it with Notepad, they are listed under the [Remappable Keys] category and are placed after the = symbol of each Function. The WORDS listed here are typically the harder too remember ones for the keys.


KEY to Press

WORD to Add to the
eaw.ini file



Spacebar SPACE
Backspace BACK
Print Screen RMENU
Scroll Lock SCROLL
Numpad Num Lock NUMLOCK
Numpad / DIVIDE
Numpad . DECIMAL
Numpad + ADD

The standard arrow keys are UP DOWN LEFT RIGHT
Note: I couldn't determine the WORD for Caps Lock, it appears un-assignable.


Common Changes from the Default;
You may find you want a better Keyboard configuration than the default, perhaps a simpler setup. One common change a lot of virtual pilots make is the following; Changing the Pilot Map from the complex default locations:

[ALT M] changed to [M]

Freeing up some KEYS;
If you are using a Joystick, Throttle and Rudder then you can remove the keyboard equivalent key-presses if you do not intend to use the keyboard as flight controls by removing the key assignment after the "=" sign. Just like the following:


Note: Among the keys freed mention above, there are other keys without any assignment at all. Then there are semi-free keys that have a few assignments to them. These free and semi-free keys can all be used to remap the keyboard to your liking, you can proceed most of the WORDS with SHIFT or CTRL or ALT, such as SHIFT EQUALS.

WEP or 'War Emergency Power' ;
Some will say that in the original stock game, WEP is modeled as 100% power on the throttle and your engine will overheat at that setting within 5 mins or so. You can turn it off by reducing the throttle a bit, perhaps back to 80 or 85%. Also if you manipulate the throttle during the course of your flight, by reducing it when you don't really need full throttle, such as in dives and a few other maneuvers, then you won't have overheating problems.

If you do not have a joystick attached to your system, the mouse is likely to be the primary controller for European Air War. As a flight control the mouse re-centers as soon as you stop moving it. The mouse input is not relative to an imaginary position so you most likely will need the keyboard in combination to the mouse to fly. The mouse motions used to fly the plane are nose down is forward, nose up is backwards, then stick left and right. To fly a loop you have to pull the mouse towards yourself, lift it off the pad and start over. In a turning fight you would bank with the mouse while pressing the 'up-elevator' key to help turn...

If you want to fly with the Mouse; First, update to version 1.1 of European Air War. Then fly any plane in the game before quitting. Double-click on the EAW.INI file in your European Air War folder. In the [Remappable Keys] section, change the line to read "Flight Controls=Mouse." Make sure that nothing else is assigned to "Mouse" in the control setup. Save the EAW.INI file and start the game again.

Even if you do have both a mouse and a joystick, the mouse is important for other functions. The mouse is necessary for selecting from menus and maps and moving around the briefing screens. Not to mention controlling the Virtual Cockpit view and External cameras.


Here's the Mouse buttons;
Buttons 1 and 2 by default are assigned to camera zoom (plus you move the mouse in and out) and camera reset. Button three and the Wheel can be assigned else where.


Screen Shots;
By default the RMENU (Print Screen) Key is used. The Screens are saved as uncompressed BMPs in the games root folder as SCRNxxxxx.bmp (Other versions may save them in a \Screenshot sub folder.) Win2000/XP does not seem to like the key assignment that EAW defaults too for its screen captures. Try assigning the INSERT key if you have problems. ALT F12 has worked in the passed as well.


Repair a semi-functioning Micro-Switch Joystick Button;

Open up your joystick and be careful doing so, take a video so you know how it goes back together. Next get some Pure Silicone Lubricant and spray a dab into the faulty switch so it goes underneath. Then push the switch in lightly and release. It may make a clicking sound again. Test it out and see if it's reliable. The important thing is that it goes on and off when you need it too. If its too far gone you need a replacement switch.