JOYSTICK and CONTROLS 3-15-2021
Written and Edited by: MarkEAW
CODEGROUP VERSION CONTENTS
If you have access to one, it’s best to use a joystick as the primary control device for European Air War. Even in tandem with a mouse, the joystick is essential—a joystick is the optimum controller for the plane in flight. Its best with a throttle and twist handle (rudder) built in. Separate rudder pedals will work with EAW v1.2 although many people have trouble getting them set up (read further for details). Also the more buttons on your stick the better: there are a lot of controls which you need to have quickly at hand. If you are wasting time searching for the right keyboard key in a dogfight your life expectancy is not going to be high (read more about this later).
This help document is for v1.2 of EAW (Even EAWv1.28). If you need help with the CodeGroups independent source modded EAW Game, please continue to use this help document and also read the section for CodeGroup Joystick and Controls Help near the end of this document. That section will provide continued assistance with EAWv1.28a and higher versions, primarily 1.28c and up.
Here I will explain how to get your controllers working with EAW. I'll start with the obvious steps then move onto more advanced steps. First a few friendly notices:
Important Notice 1:
Important Notice 2:
Important Notice 3:
Important dinput.dll Notice:
Lets really get started by reading the rest of this section, onto the next topic.
Getting Your Joystick / Primary Flight Control To Work:
Just to be on the safe side while you follow these steps, if you have more controllers than your one Primary Flight Joystick installed on your machine (like a Gamepad, Wheel, Rudder Pedals or Throttle Stick), it's highly recommended to uninstall and disconnect all of them before attempting to run EAW, as unforeseen problems may occur, such as EAW not detecting your wanted preferred Primary Flight Joystick controller. So remove and disconnect them.
If you have a programmable joystick, be sure that the programming portion of
the software for
it has been shut off and that the joystick is not using a profile, its not
required and will only interfere with EAW detecting your Joystick during the
launch to the flight screen. (For your information, with-in EAW, you can assign any function you desire to any button
on the Joystick in the Advanced
2)After reading and following instructions in step 1 above, be sure your Joystick or main flight control
is listed (or assigned) as ID 1(or preferred device) in your
Windows operating system in the Game Controllers control panel. It should be at the top of the list.
To do this in Windows XP go into the Control Panel and select Game Controllers and make
sure your stick is listed as the first controller on your list of controllers;
Click the Advanced button, your stick should be listed as your Legacy
Controller. In Windows 7, 8, 10 go into the Control Panel and select Devices and Printers> Find your Joystick Icon Device> Right Click and select Game Controller Settings> Click Advanced and Select your Primary Joystick,
this will set it for Preferred Device and Ok it.
(For any version of Windows OS you can get there too by clicking the start button and in the search or run box
type "JOY.CPL" and press the enter key.)
3)If you have previously run EAW with or without any controllers connected, as a precaution, delete your eaw.ini file (Found in the EAW Game Folder) and then re run the game. Typically the game detects and sets the correct Controller defaults and means everything should be working correctly and you won't have to move any setting manually. However once in awhile you must enable your controller; go to Game Configuration/Set-Up> Controls and on the Controller Setup Screen, set your basic Flight Controls; There you will see the first four lines, make sure they are all moved to the left most setting. For FLIGHT CONTROL to Joystick, So if your joystick has a throttle and rudder built in, then THROTTLE CONTROL to Throttle and RUDDER CONTROL to Rudder in that order.
(Note: None of the selection options on the left most setting should not be grayed out if your Joystick supports all of those functions and the circled options should not be set to Keyboard, unless your Joystick lacks a Throttle and Rudder.) If all went well with EAW detecting your primary controller (FLIGHT CONTROL set to Joystick is important here), it should not be grayed out, then you can try a Quick mission to test your controllers performance. However if the Joystick setting for FLIGHT CONTROL is grayed out, read the next paragraph.
If any of them are grayed out that should not be, then exit the game and open
your eaw.ini file with notepad. Make sure that the setting for Windows
Joystick=1 and not zero. (this turns off the faulty DirectInput API EAW was
programmed with and uses
the older Windows Controller API instead when set to 1.) Now re-enter the game and first go to Game Configuration/Set-Up> Controls and on the Controller Setup Screen,
set your basic Flight Controls as outlined in step 3 above. If all went well
once your done doing that, play a quick mission and see if your Joystick or
primary controller is now working properly in flight. (If the selection
options are grayed out, this means your stick is still not detected, continue onto the next paragraph
Next make sure in the Windows Game Controller settings your stick is set as the Preferred Device or ID1, top or first in the list. Now delete your eaw.ini file again and then re-run the game and see if your Primary Stick is detected correctly by first going to Game Configuration/Set-Up> Controls and on the Controller Setup Screen, set your basic Flight Controls as outlined in step 3 above. If all went well, once your done doing that, play a quick mission and see if your Joystick or primary controller is now working properly in flight. (If the selection options are grayed out, this means your stick is still not detected, continue onto the next paragraph below.)
*If your still having Problems Getting Your Primary Controller to work and don't understand why, see my 'Troubleshoot Help Document'. (Don't bother trying to get your Secondary control working until you succeed in getting your Primary in working order first.)
The problematic situation is that EAW v1.2 recognizes by auto selecting (rather than manually) only one game controller. If you only have one joystick it will work in the Windows Controller ID#1 slot. If you have two game controller devices, EAW will usually only recognize the controller in the Windows Controller ID#2 slot. Because of this EAW is not under normal situations compatible with an External Rudder. However EAW may (but not always) under unique situations successfully recognize a separate secondary type of controller (such as separate rudder pedals or throttle) plugged into different ports on the computer. Read on for solutions.
Your chances improve for secondary controller detection when a few special situations are met; One being you have special software to virtually combine them into one Device ID (sometimes your Joystick/HOTAS software has support for legacy games). Two they are physically linked (connected together and they connect to the PC by a single cable). Three they use different types of ports (One using a USB the other a Gameport) on the computer. I also find that most set ups have a problem with extra Rudder Pedals when the Joystick already has a Twist-Handle built in, Thus EAW gets confused and doesn't allow either device to function.
Three (3) Device Warning:
Let's try to get the 2nd Control to work with EAW v1.2 now.
1) For the setup of your external throttle or rudder pedals, if you have confirmed already that your primary controller is working properly in game, Install and Connect your Throttle stick or Rudder pedals as directed by the manufacture.
2) Find out where your Throttle or Rudder Pedals are on the list in Windows and write it down. Device ID2 is where it should be at, with again, your primary flight stick should still be the preferred Device ID1. If not move your flight Joystick to ID1 (first on the list/work with older game option).
3) Load up the game and go to "CONFIGURE GAME" > "CONTROL". You should be on the 'Controller Setup' Screen. There you will see the first four lines, make sure they are all moved to the left most setting. The Joystick is assigned for Flight Control and Rudder is Rudder and Throttle is Throttle, Camera is Mouse.
If all went well with EAW detecting your secondary controller, none of them will be
grayed out and you can try a Quick mission to test both your controllers out.
4) Goto step 3 and see if any of the control options are grayed out. If everything worked out then you can fly to see if your controls are responding correctly. If any are grayed out then you need to see my 'Troubleshoot Help Document' and read the Joystick troubleshoot area, again.
(For further troubleshooting continue reading this document from top to bottom,
also read my separate 'Troubleshoot Help Document' for details about all the control
problems and issues you may experience).
CHProduct (analog)Flightstick Gameport and CH (analog)Pedals Gameport
CHProduct Combatstick USB and USB CH Pro Pedals (use the control manager to map it as one device)
CHProduct FighterStick USB and USB CH Pro Pedals (use the control manager to map it as one device)
CHProduct Fighterstick (analog version) CHProduct Pro Throttle
CHProduct F-16 Combatstick, prothrottle, and chpedals or pro pedals. (all analog)
CHProduct F-16 Combatstick Gameport and USB CHProduct Pro Pedals
Logitech Wingman Force USB (no twist handle) and analog Gameport CHProduct Pro Pedals OR Simped Rudder Pedals.
Logitech Wingman Extreme 3D and analog Thrustmaster Elite Rudder Pedals
Microsoft Sidewinder 3D Pro (tested on WinXP with generic 4-button joystick w/POV and throttle option, no rudder.)
Microsoft Sidewinder Force Feedback (gameport type connected w/PnP adapter to Simped Rudder Pedals to gameport)
Microsoft Sidewinder Force Feedback 2 (tested on Win7/Win10 with built-in generic drivers)
Saitek AV8R-01 (with Mode switch to OFF)
Saitek X36F USB chain-linked X35T Throttle combo (Windows Joystick=0 in eaw.ini)
Saitek X36F Gameport chain-linked X35T Throttle combo
Saitek X45 USB Digital Stick chain-linked Throttle combo
Saitek X52 Pro USB chain-linked Throttle
Saitek Pro Flight Cessna Yoke chain-linked Throttle Quadrant chain-linked Rudder Pedals
Simped Rudder Pedals (plug a stick/throttle combo into y-cable gameport and connect to gameport)
Suncom HOTAS (shows as a "Three Axis Controller + Rudder Pedals" in Windows)
Suncom F15E Talon (on "B" setting w/USB adapter)
Suncom F15E Talon and Throttle with CH Pro Pedals
Suncom F15E Talon and Suncom SFS Throttle
Suncom SFS Flight Controller chain-linked Throttle (combo) connected through CH Pro Pedals (gameport)
Thrustmaster F16 FLCS and WCS MKII Throttle. Set Black Switch to Analog & Red to Digital.
Thrustmaster USB Top Gun Fox 2 Pro HOTAS
Thrustmaster USB HOTAS Cougar
Thrustmaster F22 Pro chain-linked F16 Throttle Quadrant System(TQS) chain-linked TM Rudder Control System(RCS)*
Track IR 4 (used with "mouse emulation")
*Ever wonder which rudder pedals are actually featured as a no-named picture in the official EAW User Manual on Page 16? I'm almost sure they are the 'ThrustMaster Rudder Control System' PC Game Pedals that where made first in 1993-then years later.
You may consider upgrading with The Vector Expansion. The trackir device works much better with the newer track-clip pro providing a lot more stability than the older reflective dots method on a baseball cap. (There is also the added advantage that the clip can be attached to a pair of headphones). For your reference there is a third-party version of the track-clip pro (called the DelanClip if your interested).
You will want to use the series 5 trackir software (there are several versions of the 5 series software available, not all work for every system, 5.2 seems to work with Win7). There are also alternative tracker software that work for these devices. Some you may find cheaper or even free. Just make sure the one you pick, supports mouse-emulation, since its required to work with EAW.
Follow these steps:
3. Map the TrackIR pause function to the same key on your joystick that you've
mapped internal padlock. (This will Toggle the TrackIR On/Off and allowing for
EAW's own padlock view to track the target when needed).
In the TRACKIR software Choose MOUSE EMULATOR to bring up a window. In that window check ‘X AXIS AUTO PANNING’ and move the slide bar all the way to the right. This should give you a value of 95.
9. In EAW under CONTROLLER SETUP make sure the CAMERA POSITION is selected for MOUSE. You may need to SWAP MOUSE Y axis.
10. Also you may need to adjust the EAW Camera Sensitivity (located in Setup>Controls) to as low as possible, all the way to the left for best results.
11. Play EAW.
This section of this help document is for the information on the Control settings, this includes a few of the specific eaw.ini settings that are related. You will find these settings are also covered briefly in my EAW.INI Help Document, read the [CONTROLS] section in that help document for that information.
The rest of the senses of the FF just add to the excitement!! True FF sticks like the MS Sidewinder use two motors to drive the stick, one for the X axis and one for Y. They can be programmed freely in games to move in any way you want. Distance, speed and force are fully programmable so in effect you'd have far more then 100 possible movements and that's exactly how it is programmed in EAW. European Air War has been programmed to work with any DirectX-compatible Force Feedback Joystick, and has been tested by MicroProse with Microsoft's Sidewinder Force Feedback Pro, Logitech's Wingman Force, and CHProduct's ForceFX. I've tested it with Microsoft's Sidewinder Force Feedback 2. (Note: Versions before EAW v1.2 disabled force feedback on some Logitech Joysticks, patch to v1.2 to resolve the issue.) Note: One lacking feature is that the rudder control on most if not all sticks, don't have FF, maybe some rudder pedals have, but I don't recall ever seeing any.
Newer, more commonly manufactured Force Feedback equivalent sticks use what is called 'Rumble' or 'Force Vibration', These sticks usually use a spring for centering (instead of tension from motors). The motors they use for vibration are smaller than what full fledge FF Sticks use. However, these FF equivalent sticks still are using the same FF instructions from the game to provide low grade feedback to you stick. Don't let that keep you from getting a rumble or vibration stick as some feedback is better than none. Note: Realize different games and sticks from different manufactures will behave differently than EAW or a full fledge FF stick.
FF sticks will provide spring centering resistances with motor tension. The physical resistance in a normal stick uses a Spring. The Spring is there to give you some resistance and automatically centers your stick. You only need enough spring tension to return the stick to the center perfectly every time. Any more tension just creates extra hassles like wrestling for control of the aircraft, sometimes resulting in busted stick shafts.
In the Games Setup Control menu, three Force Feedback options are listed; "Disabled," "Arcade," and "Realistic,". If these options are all grayed out, your joystick does not support Force Feedback.
If your joystick supports Force Feedback but you don't want to use it, select "Disabled,"(0). The other two options, "Arcade"(1) and "Realistic,"(2) set different types of Force Feedback responses. "Realistic" places an emphasis on the forces of flying (such as engine stalls and G-force effects); "Arcade" on the other hand, will exaggerate 'action' forces (such as firing your guns and taking damage). This is in the eaw.ini file, below it is set to FF ON: Arcade Mode.
Force Feedback Gain:
Force Feedback Gain=7500
Intro Stalls/Spins and Wobble:
However the "automatic" transition from stall to spin is not necessarily realistic in EAW, but it does give considerable incentive to learn to fly the plane, not to yank the stick! You can overcame your beginner tendency to stall frequently by thinking in terms of "rounding" maneuvers; nothing sharp. This may solve your problem. The following information printed below about Flight Sensitivity and Deadzone settings will greatly help you out. Keep reading here.
Wobbling flight is another effect you can cure by reading and using the Flight Sensitivity and Deadzone settings. Explained very quickly you can experiment first with the "Flight Sensitivity" and then "JoystickDeadZone" settings.
DeadZone is an area around the stick axis in which stick movement produces no effect (in short, a "dead zone" around the stick axis!). The settings range from 0-20, so 10 is exactly in the middle. The higher the DeadZone setting, the farther the stick will have to travel before control input takes place. The lower the DeadZone, the less the stick has to move before the control input registers. Flight sensitivity comes into play after you have moved the stick beyond the JoystickDeadZone. Flight Sensitivity ranges up to 1.5. The higher this setting, the more control response you should notice for a given amount of stick movement.
The combination of a low JoystickDeadZone setting and a high Flight Sensitivity would normally lead to a "wobbling" effect. You may want to try and increase your JoystickDeadZone to close to 20 and reduce your Flight Sensitivity to a very low value. This should make your airplane stable. Unfortunately your airplane will not only be stable, it most likely will not be very suitable for combat! since there will be a great lack of maneuverability. So once your plane is stable, begin experimenting with gradually moving the values back toward the opposite extreme until you achieve a good balance between stability and gameplay. So decrease JoystickDeadZone and Increase Flight Sensitivity one at a time. (It's hard to give exact figures since joysticks are different; some models are more sensitive than others).
Read below for more in-depth setting and testing of these stick values.
The performance of your plane will be dependent on the combination your Flight Sensitivity and JoystickDeadZone values, your own joystick quality / condition, and your own flying ability. So you may find you have to adjust your JoystickDeadZone up or down with the addition to Flight Sensitivity (FS is described below in the next topic).
A lower JoystickDeadZone value reduces the amount of Dead Zone, allowing control inputs to take place sooner, making the plane responsive sooner and to slighter movement of the stick, you may get tighter turns and better response in Pitch and Roll the lower it is. A higher setting increases the amount of Dead Zone, delaying the time when input begins to take place, making for a more stable plane. Also this tweaking of the JoystickDeadZone value can often help to smooth out a shaky stick or improve response on a sluggish one.
This setting is only found in the eaw.ini , there is no in game slider for this. A Value of 6 would be a small deadzone and 10 would be a larger deadzone. If you have a good quality joystick that holds its center position well, then you only need a small deadzone as long as you have a steady hand (0 min). A Value of 4 or less seems pretty good for modern Joysticks (from late 1990's and into the 2000's). Maximum value is 20. Try a value of 3 to 5 to cut some of that engine torque or the occasional side rudder. Default value for EAWv1.2 is 10 (Middle Range).
In general I would recommend a higher JoystickDeadZone setting to begin with until you have gotten a better feel for the Flight Models. Then gradually change your settings to the improved settings of a high Flight Sensitivity / Low DeadZone setting. See the Flight Sensitivity topic below to set and test Flight Sensitivity and other Joystick settings.
Flight Sensitivity controls the amount of control input you apply to the FM from moving the stick by any amount AFTER it passes through the Dead Zone (read the previous section on the "JoystickDeadZone" for guidance). If your stick is overly sensitive, a very slight movement will result in a great deal of control response. On the other hand, an extremely low sensitivity setting will result in very little control input for the same amount of stick movement. You will find physically, individual brands of joysticks are more or less sensitive than others, and that these settings may have to be tweaked for the different sticks.
If you use different custom FMs sets (a group of plane parameters modified by the same persons), you will find that every time you fly with a different set of FMs it may be difficult to adjust to them. This is because they each have their own handling characteristics and each FM set responds differently to control inputs. This can also be an issue from plane to plane. Meaning , ultimately you may need to adjust this sensitivity per plane, every time you change planes. (Note: it's possible with the newer source code modified games to use a mix batch of FMs, so this becomes even more important).
The lower settings will give you a more stable, less prone to stall, but slower response to your inputs, not to mention losing some of your planes ability to turn tight. The higher setting will give you a tighter turn, more prone to stall, but faster response to your inputs. You must have sensitivity high enough to give you full control deflection: if it's too low you can't turn as fast as you should (a very bad thing in a dogfight). However, if it's set too high the plane will be very unstable and it'll be hard to line up a shot - especially in 'pilot full zoom mode'.
You have to find the sweet spot where you can maneuver more freely without having to worry about stalls and spins at critical moments. The more realistic the flight model and the more realistic the in game settings are, a lower setting you may find will be better. You may find giving up a little turn performance for a more stable plane is best. This will help avoid Spins and Blackouts while sacrificing some performance of a tight turn. A less sensitive configuration is at an advantage at higher altitudes because planes lose turn performance and stall earlier.
If you find that your over controlling and spinning out too often. It maybe best for you to set the slider to the lowest value of 0.8000 to begin with and work your way back up from there. You may find a slight adjustment set at 0.9000 may seem comfortable for most planes. Some Planes/FM's are more forgiving than others so, experiment! If you feel you need more guidance keep reading and follow the directions below in the next topic.
To over come some of the learning curve and having to reset the values again when using many FM sets/or Planes is to write down the separate eaw.ini JoystickDeadZone and Flight Sensitivity values for each of the FMs/or plane type you have/or use.
You may go as far as having several copies of the eaw.ini file saved already with the appropriate settings to use for a particular Flight Model Modification. If you use sub-folders for FM sets (most older custom sets require subfolders), then go and find your primary eaw.ini file then copy it into each of your other installed FM set sub-folders, so that when you enable a particular set from its sub-folder into the main games root folder that you want to fly (via a manager program perhaps), you will also enable that particular ini file with the appropriate settings for that particular Flight Model Modification. (Anytime you work on these ini files, make sure you work on it inside its own sub-folder. This way you will be able to go into each individual ini file and tweak your joystick sensitivity and dead zone settings so that it responds properly per aircraft Flight Model set.)
Testing Sensitivity And DeadZone:
Do the flight testing offline. Get a stopwatch and time a Spit 1A in a level 180 degree turn using full stick deflection; start the turn at about 240mph. Keep increasing the sensitivity until you've got the fastest rate of turn. If it's already set high, decrease it until you notice turn rate falling off, then nudge sensitivity up a touch and leave it there.
If you don't have a Sweet spot set by now, your still at a disadvantage. See the next set of instructions below.
1-Set the sensitivity slider in EAW to max (right side), make a test flight in a
109E4 and pull the stick backward, if the plane stalls very easy, it
means your flight is functioning normally go to step 2. If the plane
seems stiff and is difficult at stalling, you need to increase the
Joystick Sensitivity out of the game and in your Joystick Software.
3-Now that you have the Joystick Software settings corrected, set the sensitivity-slider in EAW to max (to the right side) and get a stopwatch and time a 109E4, at 100m from the ground and make test turns with full power, turning as tight as you possible (full stick deflection) without stalling, but almost (When the HUD Display in the lower left is Yellow.)
4-Stop the timer at the end of a 360degree turn. The E4 will require about 16 seconds at 225km/h with 100m altitude and should stall late while in a constant turn. (You should get at around 230-235km/h about a 15sec duration for the full 360degree turn.)
5-Before each test afterwards reduce the sensitivity (slider left, notch by notch) until the plane starts to lose its Turn Performance (until you notice turn rate falling off or spins) with elevators at there maximum.
6-Once you found the spin, up the sensitivity slightly (slider right, just by one notch). This should now give you the full benefit, the sweet spot for that particular plane, joystick and settings.
Note: If you get a new stick, you'll need to go through the process again.
Swap Mouse Axis:
Swap Mouse X=0
The Joystick (Device1) is assigned for Flight Control and Rudder is Rudder on Device1 and Throttle is Throttle on Device1. These are normally setup from within the game in Controller Setup screen; all set to the near left setting. There may come a time you'll have to move these around to something else, but it's unlikely...
The 'Flight Control' is the important one; it’s the main instrument for flying your aircraft, typically, this is set to Joystick. The selections for the other control options might change or be limited depending on what you select here.
Binding Keyboard Functions to Key Assignments are best done from within the Games Advanced Control Configuration as duplicate entry's are watched by the program and it won't let you add them. Start the game, then go to:
"CONFIGURE GAME" > "CONTROL" > "Advanced".
Across the top should be the listings for the "View", "Flight", "Weapon", and "Game" sections. You should already be on the "View" options. To change a mapped function, just click on the function you want to change. It should turn red. Then hit the key on your keyboard, or press the button on your joystick (including the hat switch) that you want to map that function to. If that key/button is already in use, EAW will tell you.
To remove an assignment of a key without assigning a new function from within the Game, select the function you want to remove and then press the [Pause Break] key as the new assignment, this will remove and blank out the key assignment.
Provided here is an example to help you get familiar with assigning buttons. Then additional instructions to help you out written afterwards. (To assign buttons to functions from within the game, go to CONFIGURE GAME then CONTROLS then ADVANCED.)
To stay on top of the fight you have to continuously jump around between several different views - simultaneously using target functions to see who is where, and what their speed and altitude is (HUD data). Good S.A. is one of the main skills which makes a decent pilot; bad S.A. is the main reason rookie pilots get killed. Before you can even begin to develop this skill, you need to make sure that you have all the game functions you need at your fingertips.
Below is a list of the most important game commands (ie views and target buttons). Try to get as many of these functions as possible set somewhere on your stick. Buying a stick with lots of buttons increases your options. The easy to find keys such as the spacebar, enter key, and the mouse buttons are next in line once you've used up all your stick buttons.
You can just go ahead and try things out with default keyboard settings, but if you find you are having a tough time, unable to keep track of the fight (and you will), get your stick setup with lots of views and targeting functions. You'll never be-able to play effectively if you only use the front and rear views. Also if you don't learn to switch through the many Targeting functions other than the standard [T] key (Target Closest), like the one for finding Friendly Wingman, it will make team play difficult. You also need to know how to use Flaps and Gear quickly, as well as the Map and Cockpit Zoom. All these options available to you are needed to be successful and to improve your skills.
The minimum what a personal configuration needs to provide to the player:
Note: SNAP VIEWS have shifted view points (added in 1.28a/c) in the Virtual Cockpit to see 'around' the planes pilot seat and structure better than standard views. Also all snap views in the stock game where designed by MicroProse to overlap each other as well so you don't miss a thing.
*standard [F1] Front view (2D Cockpit, in the cockpit looking straight ahead) New pilots who always fly in the forward facing cockpit view get killed quickly. So if you're in a 1 v 1 engagement, you can get by with just forward view, rear snap, and padlock toggle. You may want to have the front up view also so you can see above the front windshield of your cockpit during turns.
*padlock view or padlock toggle (locks your view on whatever plane you have targeted; toggle might be best) This is often the best solution for newbie's and people without a 8-way Hat Switch. It provides a simple setup that the player can use to automatically follow the target. Padlock can be confusing or disorientated in the beginning, but with the right configuration and after some hours of usage things become easier.
*snap views The 'snap views' consist in 9 different keys (By default the snap views are programmed to the Keyboards Numpad.), every key alone represents one view direction (front, front right, front left, right, left, rear, rear right, rear left, 90° up). If you push one of these keys, the view will snap to that direction and if you release the key, it will snap back to the front view. Snapping Back automatically is very important to keep orientation. If you always fly within the cockpit, you'll be using snap views to look around and target buttons or keys to identify planes. With a lot of planes in the sky, you'll need to jump around all the different views regularly.
MOST IMPORTANT regarding the snap views is, to know that you can combine the 'snap view 90° up' button, with any of the horizontal snap views, to get a 45° up view!! Example: Push 'snap view right' + 'snap view 90° up' at same time and you will get = 'snap view 45° up right'.
To make it possible for you to look at every view direction, you must use all 9 functions, programming the 8 horizontal 'snap views' to your Joysticks 8 way Hat switch(POV) and then set the ninth function, 'snap view 90° up' to a button on your stick base, which you can reach easily without your finger leaving the throttle slider (this is also very important to maintain a good dogfight!). With this common view system setup you can look all around while fighting, easily!! like the following:
EAW.ini [Remappable Keys]
POV can also be assigned to emulate the "mouse view(pan view)". You will most likely want to tone down the sensitivity for the camera to its minimum, this is so that the movements of the POV switch are soft and not abrupt.
*mouse view can be used to look around easily, keeping more than one target in sight at the same time and it works well in 'Full Realistic" Missions without icons. However the disadvantage is one of your hands is tide up, rather than being ready on the keyboard or the stick buttons.
*zoom in and zoom out (magnifies your gunsight - great for long range shots)
*instrument view or a snap view (in a long battle, you need to watch your engine temperature; if you're not sure what's what turn on instrument labels with [ALT F1], but note that instrument labels don't work in the virtual cockpit.)
*cockpit toggle (switches cockpit off so you can see without the cockpit being displayed, allows you to see more.)
With an external style, you'll probably be using the external camera view ([F9] and mouse pan) a lot to look around when its safe to do so, when there is no near bandits around - as always, clicking away with target buttons to identify planes (assigning some of the target commands to your mouse buttons can be a good way to work with mouse pan but I'd advise keeping 'target closest enemy' and 'target next enemy' on your stick where you can get at them more quickly).
A good technique is to jump around between player/target (to see the bandit), [F9] (to fly the plane), and [F1] (with toggle cockpit set off [Keypad .]) to shoot or chase. You'll also need to use padlock occasionally - eg in a close quarters scissors fight - so keep it on your stick buttons somewhere or use the default quick key [Numpad *].
*[F9] view (External view following your plane - also cycles through other planes in the game. If you get killed early in a sweep for example, you can watch the rest of the fight from the perspective of any plane in the game.) Its useful for taking off or landing to see what you're airplane is doing and to see how close to the ground you really are.
*mouse pan (in [F9], the mouse moves your viewpoint around) In combat you'll also want to use this (with your left hand for the mouse and stick in the right hand).
*player / target view (external view) Is good in dogfights since it gives you a very clear picture of the two planes' relative positions.
*target / player view (same as player / target but from the other end) Is good for evading a bandit close on your six, or to quickly check what he's up to.
Some sticks have a trackball - if you've got one it's ideal for the camera pan.
(There are also a few other external views, but these are not so relevant for fighter combat). The [F12] key (movie mode) can be used to look around at the action. If you're not in the heat of battle, you can put your plane on autopilot and watch the action unfold, or just admire the view. Use the mouse to move around and zoom in and out. You may find yourself spending as much time just looking around this way as actually flying. Just like watching a good WWII movie!
*TARGET CLOSEST ENEMY (absolutely vital: you've got to know where the closest bandit is)
Here are the other Targeting Functions available to you and are not normally needed on your Joystick.
TARGET PREVIOUS ENEMY
Other Important Buttons On The Stick:
Important Buttons On The Stick For Online Play:
As an unorthodox configuration you can use hat switches for functions you need quickly in a dogfight--zoom, cockpit toggle, etc. instead of using it for views; instead follow your opponent with padlock, and use the snap views in the base of the stick to keep track of your orientation.
Some players may want to use the hat switch as a 8-views option with another
button used for UP, which would allow 16 views in total, when UP and one of
the other views are pressed.
View Flight Testing:
This section of the document is to provide information about miscellaneous
Modifying the EAW.INI:
Joystick EAW.INI Commands:
This is how a 4 way hat is typed out.
This is how the extra 8 way hat is typed out.
Note: Among the keys freed mention above, there are other keys without any assignment at all. Then there are semi-free keys that have a few assignments to them. These free and semi-free keys can all be used to remap the keyboard to your liking, you can proceed most of the WORDS with SHIFT or CTRL or ALT, such as SHIFT EQUALS.
If you want to fly with the Mouse; First, update to version 1.1 of European Air War. Then fly any plane in the game before quitting. Double-click on the EAW.INI file in your European Air War folder. In the [Remappable Keys] section, change the line to read "Flight Controls=Mouse." Make sure that nothing else is assigned to "Mouse" in the control setup. Save the EAW.INI file and start the game again.
Even if you do have both a mouse and a joystick, the mouse is important for other functions. The mouse is necessary for selecting from menus and maps and moving around the briefing screens. Not to mention controlling the Virtual Cockpit view and External cameras.
Here's the Mouse buttons;
If you take a short quick series of screenshots, you may notice
a slight loss of framerate, or "hesitation" in the game. This is
just the screenshot being placed in the EAW main game folder.
They are saved with filename scrn****.bmp", where the **** are
replaced by four digits. Be aware that screenshot size increases
dramatically with higher resolutions; 1280 x 1024 yields a 3.8MB bitmap
screenshot, game hesitation maybe longer with larger screenshots.
Open up your joystick and be careful doing so, take a video so you know how it goes back together. Next get some Pure Silicone Lubricant and spray a dab into the faulty switch so it goes underneath. Then push the switch in lightly and release. It may make a clicking sound again. Test it out and see if it's reliable. The important thing is that it goes on and off when you need it too. If its too far gone you need a replacement switch.
CODEGROUP VERSION CONTENT
This document is to aid you in setting up and knowing the new functions added to the CodeGroup's independent build(s) of EAW, v1.28a and up. (It does not include the FXEXE modification or the official stock v1.2 controller information)*.
*Please see my Joystick and Controls Help instructions starting with this page up above for setting up your Flight Stick controller in EAW first. Most of that information in that section will help with EAWv1.28 as well.
This section is to help with the more advanced configuration of the independent CodeGroup's coded controller support. Lets really get started by reading this section.
Reminder: This particular help document only addresses the CodeGroup's source changes, you'll have to read the standard stock Joystick and Controls Help Document for more information.
1) For the setup of your external throttle or rudder pedals, if you have confirmed already that your primary controller is working properly in game, Install and Connect your Throttle stick and/or Rudder pedals as directed by the manufacture. (If your troubleshooting only, just plug one or the other in for now).
2) Find out where your Throttle or Rudder Pedals are on the list in Windows and write it down. Device ID2 (and ID3 if you plugged all three in) is where it should be at, with again, your primary flight stick should still be the preferred Device ID1. If not move your flight Joystick to ID1 (first on the list / "work with older game option").
3) Load up the game and go to "CONFIGURE GAME" > "CONTROL". You should be on the
'Controller Setup' Screen. There you will see the first four lines, make sure
there all moved to the left most setting. The Joystick is assigned for Flight
Control and Rudder is Rudder and Throttle is Throttle, Camera is Mouse.
4) Goto step 3 and see if any of the control options are grayed out. If everything worked out then you can fly to see if your controls are responding correctly. If any are grayed out then you need to fiddle some more with the eaw.ini Controls section to match to the Windows List.
5) Repeat for your next controller if you previously chose to setup one.
*For further help in fixing an issue, read my 'Troubleshoot Help Document'.
In the CodeGroups v1.28 versions and up there are a few new entries in the eaw.ini listed under [Controls].
Here are three of them at their default value settings. Please see my CodeGroup EAW.INI Help Document for more information on how to use these three settings to your advantage.
This area of the document may seem very advanced for some pilots, but I tried to explain it the best I could with the most detail as possible.
Device and Ports
*The actual List number in the Windows Game Controllers Control Panel (JOY.CPL) is not shown, you just have to count from the top of the list as 1 and the rest follow. So far for most players, this has been a trial and error adventure to assign the correct numbers for the devices they use... Part of the problem is that it's hazy regarding the relationships between the 'Device# Port' = value and the Windows value. The person that programmed support for two extra devices (three total) says that Device# Port= 'Windows Controller List number'. You be the judge. If you can provide any clarification that you may figure out between the information I have provided in this document and what you discover, please contact me.
Reminder: You can run the Windows Game Controllers Control Panel by typing in the Start Menus RUN box JOY.CPL This will quickly get you to it without having to go through more clicking in Windows.
Using With Other Gaming Devices:
In the modern EAW INI file you will see a segment listed under [CONTROLS], such as the following:
In this example below, only one Joystick (the MSSWFF2 Stick) is equipped with
built in Throttle and Twist Handle (Rudder).
Since they are on the same
physical controller (In Windows, Device ID#1), same with the POV Hat, it uses
the default settings. Device2 and Device3 do not exist, so they are ignored.
If you switch Device1 to use your secondary controller on port two, then that controller becomes primary, thus the 2nd controller's buttons should now work in EAW without the need for external software. However the Device2 controller on port one will not be able to have the buttons assignable within the game. The configuration listed below just moves every function to the 2nd controller as if its primary.
The configuration below leaves the primary on port 1 , Device2 is the Throttle Controller, Throttle Device= confirms this and indicates to use Device2 on port2.
Below we use a USB Logitech Extreme 3D Joystick (which is a fairly standard Joystick) with a USB Saitek Pro Flight Rudder Pedals. The Rudder Pedals are the 2nd device (plugged into port 2) shown here and is not part of the primary Joystick, so its set to Device2. While the Throttle still remains on the primary Joystick; both set to Device1 , Port1.
Below we use a Logitech G940 HOTAS flight package (which is fairly unique). This package has Stick, Throttle and Rudder Pedals.
Thrustmaster USB T Flight Stick X (Not HOTAS). You see here Zero "0"
is actually used as the Stick device
Logitech Flight System G940 HOTAS. You see here Zero "0" is actually used as the Stick device
A BU0836 Controller Board on DeviceID1 in Windows; Stick and Throttle Connected. Rudder Pedals on separate USB port as DeviceID2 in Windows.
For EAWv1.28(I think) and up, the code was changed to a default low of 4. More modern sticks work well with the lower values. The range is from 0 to 20.
If you use different custom FMs sets (a group of plane parameters modified by the same persons), you will find that every time you fly with a different set of FMs it may be difficult to adjust to them. This is because they each have their own handling characteristics and each FM set responds differently to control inputs. This can also be an issue from plane to plane. Meaning you may need to adjust this sensitivity per plane, every time you change planes. (Note: it's possible with the newer source code modified games to use a mix batch of FMs, so this becomes even more important).
(download and see my black and white eaw-quick-ref-key-sheet.png for the default key locations used in v1.28e+).
The new configuration of controls and weapon usage which has replaced the stock game configuration. the new system is described below.
With the fire/trigger button you can shoot the MG´s(1st gun group), with one of the buttons left next to the hatswitch you shoot the 2nd guns (cannons in German planes), with the button below the "2nd Guns button" you can use as Additional Guns(if available), gunpods for example. This also works with the P38, P39, P47 etc and helps to save ammo. Other weapon types such as Bombs/Rockets/Torpedo's you can release with a button on the stick base.
(2 fire buttons, one additional gun select button) would be historical correct and is very handy. With just three gun buttons, its not possible to shoot all guns together, at least not in a historical correct way.
Using a Logitech Wingman Extreme 3D Pro (6 buttons at the base, 5 buttons at the grip + hatswitch).
FIRE ALL GUNS=SPACE
*The ADDITIONAL GUNS BUTTON SWAP switches the function of ADDITIONAL GUNS ON/OFF to "Fire Third Guns".
The ADDITIONAL GUNS BUTTON SWAP switches the function of ADDITIONAL GUNS ON/OFF to "Fire Third Guns". This feature is is needed in Planes with three different guns, that normally don't get used together. For an example the FW190F8 with MK103 gunpods to attack tanks. There is no need to shoot the 20mm together with the 30mm, cause the 20mm will not have good results on heavy armored vehicles. Similar with the P39 and its big cannon or the He219 etc. You probably won't use this feature that much, but in some planes its useful and historically correct.
A Version Note;
For EAW v1.28 and above, you can adjust the head turn speed by the newly added "snapview speed=" value in the eaw.ini, (some people complained that the default snapview head turn speed is un-naturally fast, this can get slowed down now.)
*cockpit toggle (switches cockpit off so you can see without the cockpit being displayed, allows you to see more.) In EAW v1.28 and above, the new higher Pilot Skill Difficulties will not allow this.
*In EAW v1.28 and above, the check six snap view was changed into a more realistic one; the back of the pilot seat is now present. So now to get the "mirror like" check six view (where there is no chair in the view) you need to press snap view rear (default Numpad2) followed by the cockpit on/off (default Numpad DECIMAL)). If the new Pilot Skill Difficulty allows it. The more historical option is to 'fishtail' side to side to get a decent 'rear view' without toggling the cockpit off. To fly without frames and rear plating is a real immersion killer. Most real world WWII planes didn't have a mirror.
This section of the document is to provide information about miscellaneous
(added in EAW v1.28d)
When you start a mission, WEP is ON by default when a plane is equipped with it, meaning you can use all the rpms the plane has to provide. WEP will give you 10% more rpms of boost power when you increase the throttle to the max.
If the engines come close to or does overheat you can turn WEP off with the THROTTLE 100%=SHIFT EQUALS [SHIFT =]. This will reduce the amount of rpms you can use at full throttle, they will no longer max out in normal flight, keeping the engines from overheating. To turn it back ON use [SHIFT =] again and you can use those increased rpms at full throttle.
Here's the Mouse buttons;
If the engine is running but still cold, you need to increase power smoothly, otherwise the engine will take damage. The engine can over-cool in a long dive with reduced power, be careful with the throttle afterwards!! Jets need a smooth throttle hand between 0 and 60% throttle, no matter how hot the engine is. If you move the throttle too fast, the turbine can catch fire.
All Engines ON/OFF (for version 1.60 and above):