Written and Edited by MarkEAW

Download Links:
-tools-manager-controller
-tools-reference-controls
-tools-reference-keys
-
-128_tools-reference-keys
-160_tools-reference-keys

[ GOTO THE MAIN EAWHS PAGE ]

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

BASIC SETUP
Important Notice 1 | Important Notice 2 | Important Notice 3 | Important dinput.dll Notice
Getting Your Joystick / Primary Flight Control To Work
Getting Your Secondary Controller(s) To Work (Joystick with Rudder Foot Pedals or Extra Throttle)
Three (3) Device Warning
 
-+-

SPECIAL DEVICE COMBINATIONS KNOWN TO WORK
TRACKIR

CONTROLS SECTION
Force Feedback | Force Feedback Gain | The Forces
Intro Stalls/Spins and Wobble | JoystickDeadZone | Flight Sensitivity
Testing Sensitivity And DeadZone | Quick Roll Rate Test | Finding The Sweet Spot
Swap Mouse Axis | Camera Sensitivity | Windows Joystick

REMAPPABLE KEYS SECTION

BINDING OR MAPPING KEYS
EAW.INI | Backup Note

PLANNING YOUR CONTROLLERS BUTTONS OUT
Joystick With 4 Buttons/4 Way Hat Example
All About Your Control Choices
Situational Awareness | In Flight Display Data (HUD) | Keyboard & Joystick Setup
View Flying Styles
Internal Views | External Views | Targeting Functions
Other Important Buttons On The Stick | Important Buttons On The Stick For Online Play
 View Flight Testing

EXTRA NOTES ABOUT CONTROLS
Modifying the EAW.INI | Joystick EAW.INI Commands | Lesser Known Key WORDS
Common Changes from the Default | Freeing up some Keys
WEP or 'War Emergency Power' |  Mouse | Here's the Mouse Buttons | Screen Shots

Repair a semi-functioning Micro-Switch Joystick Button

-+-

CODEGROUP VERSION CONTENTS

CODEGROUP INTRO

BASIC SETUP
Getting Your Rudder Foot Pedals or Extra Throttle To Work (Joystick with Secondary Controller(s))

CONTROLS SECTION
Device and Ports

JOYSTICK DEAD ZONE
 
FLIGHT SENSITIVITY

BINDING OR MAPPING KEYS

PLANNING YOUR CONTROLLERS BUTTONS OUT
Historically Correct Gun/Fire Buttons Example | View Flying Styles

EXTRA NOTES ABOUT CONTROLS
 WEP or 'War Emergency Power' | Here's The Mouse Buttons | Special Throttle Management
All Engines ON/OFF | Autoclimb | Wing Leveler Adjustable Throttle

This help document is for the official v1.2 of EAW (Even the un-official EAWv1.28). If you need help with the CodeGroups independent source modded EAW Game, please continue to use this help document but also read the section for CodeGroup Joystick and Controls Help near the end of this document. That section will provide continued assistance with EAWv1.28a and higher versions, primarily 1.28c and up.

• EAW does not require Windows Shortcut Compatibility Tab settings to be used to run correctly. Those settings will interfere with EAW from recognizing your Joystick and they are not neccessary. So don't use them!!

Important Notice 2:

• This is an early reminder that after you have correctly setup your controls to work with EAW, that you don't forget to make a backup copy of your eaw.ini file to another location. Make sure you do this!

Important Notice 3:

• Also do not unplug your controllers for swapping, they must be in proper working order before launching EAW; Make haste that in the Windows Control Panel> Gaming Devices you should have your "preferred device / works with old games / first in the list / Device ID 1" set for your Joystick before starting EAW every time. If not, EAW will blank out your button assignments, loosing them all. Remember this!

Important dinput.dll Notice:

• These Direct Input wrapper programs normally allow more modern Control Pads to be used with EAW, and perhaps improves modern Joystick support at the same time. This is normally done by upping the DirectX version supported.
  Note: EAWGOG, The purchasable GOG/Steam type game is installed with a Direct Input Wrapper automatically. This .dll can interfere with getting your all in one controller working properly. So, If your using a device with all the functions on a single Joystick, I suggest first removing the dll file from your games main root folder, at least for now. You can always add it back in if you fail to get your controller fully working.

Lets really get started by reading the rest of this section, onto the next topic.

Getting Your Joystick / Primary Flight Control To Work:
(All Axis's including Throttle and Rudder Twist Handles, if your stick includes them.)


1)Make sure your using the latest custom build of the particular source code modified version of EAW your playing. (Note: For the Original stock game, you may want to patch up to v1.2 as some controller issues where fixed, especially for Logitech Joysticks, otherwise continue). (The Special Effects EAW; FXEXE is considered v1.2 controller compatible as is v1.28).

Just to be on the safe side while you follow these steps, if you have more controllers than your one Primary Flight Joystick installed on your machine (like a Gamepad, Wheel, Rudder Pedals or Throttle Stick), it's highly recommended to uninstall and/or disconnect all of them before attempting to run EAW, as unforeseen problems may occur, such as EAW not detecting your wanted preferred Primary Flight Joystick controller. So remove and disconnect them.

If you have a programmable joystick, be sure that the programming portion of the software for it has been shut off and that the joystick is not using a profile, its not required and will only interfere with EAW detecting your Joystick during the launch to the Flight Screen. (For your information, with-in EAW, you can assign any function you desire to any button on the Joystick in the Advanced Control menus.)
 

2)After reading and following instructions in step 1 above, be sure your Joystick or main flight control is listed (or assigned) as ID 1 (or preferred device) in your Windows operating system in the Game Controllers control panel. It should be at the top of the list. To do this in Windows XP go into the Control Panel and select Game Controllers and make sure your stick is listed as the first controller on your list of controllers; Click the Advanced button, your stick should be listed as your Legacy Controller. In Windows 7, 8, 10 go into the Control Panel and select Devices and Printers> Find your Joystick Icon Device> Right Click and select Game Controller Settings> Click Advanced and Select your Primary Joystick, this will set it for Preferred Device and Ok it. (Reminder: For any version of Windows OS you can get to the Game Controllers Panel by clicking the start button and in the search or run box type "JOY.CPL" and press the enter key.)
 

3)If you have previously run EAW with or without any controllers connected, as a precaution, delete your eaw.ini file (Found in the EAW Game Folder) and then re run the game. Typically the game detects and sets the correct Controller defaults and means everything should be working correctly and you won't have to move any setting manually. However once in awhile you must enable your controller; go to Game Configuration/Set-Up> Controls and on the Controller Setup Screen, set your basic Flight Controls; There you will see the first four lines, make sure they are all moved to the left most setting. For FLIGHT CONTROL to Joystick, So if your joystick has a throttle and rudder built in, then THROTTLE CONTROL to Throttle and RUDDER CONTROL to Rudder in that order.

(Note: None of the selection options on the left most setting should not be grayed out if your Joystick supports all of those functions and the circled options should not be set to Keyboard, unless your Joystick lacks a Throttle and Rudder.)  If all went well with EAW detecting your primary controller (FLIGHT CONTROL set to Joystick is important here), it should not be grayed out, then you can try a Quick mission to test your controllers performance. However if the Joystick setting for FLIGHT CONTROL is grayed out, read the next paragraph.

If any of them are grayed out that should not be, then exit the game and open your eaw.ini file with notepad. Make sure that the setting for Windows Joystick=1 and not zero. (this turns off the faulty DirectInput API EAW was programmed with and uses the older Windows Controller API instead when set to 1.) Now re-enter the game and first go to Game Configuration/Set-Up> Controls and on the Controller Setup Screen, set your basic Flight Controls as outlined in step 3 above. If all went well once your done doing that, play a quick mission and see if your Joystick or primary controller is now working properly in flight. (If the selection options are grayed out, this means your stick is still not detected, continue onto the next paragraph below.)

Still not working correctly? If not, and you find that you're having difficulty getting the game to detect your primary Joystick (remember, at this point it should be the only controller plugged in), leave the game and try uninstalling all software and drivers of your control peripherals including your primary. Also physically remove them from the computer ports, reboot. Then re-install only your primary Joystick by following your sticks install instructions. (Of the few problematic instances MicroProse experienced during the testing process, uninstalling and re-installing the peripheral in question typically solved the problem.)

Next make sure in the Windows Game Controller settings your stick is set as the Preferred Device or ID1, top or first in the list. Now delete your eaw.ini file again and then re-run the game and see if your Primary Stick is detected correctly by first going to Game Configuration/Set-Up> Controls and on the Controller Setup Screen, set your basic Flight Controls as outlined in step 3 above. If all went well, once your done doing that, play a quick mission and see if your Joystick or primary controller is now working properly in flight. (If the selection options are grayed out, this means your stick is still not detected, continue onto the next paragraph below.)

*If your still having Problems Getting Your Primary Controller to work and don't understand why, see my 'Troubleshoot Help Document'. (Don't bother trying to get your Secondary control working until you succeed in getting your Primary in working order first.)

Getting Your Secondary Controller(s) To Work
(Joystick with Rudder Foot Pedals or Extra Throttle):

Foot pedals are optional hardware for controlling the rudder of the plane. If you do not have rudder pedals, don’t worry; European Air War also allows you to control the rudder from the keyboard, joystick (twist handle), or mouse. You will find that rudder control is an integral part of maneuvering. It provides several useful maneuvers that are available to you that are not possible using the stick ailerons alone. (Although Foot Pedals are more realistic, they are actually harder to coordinate with feet and hands at first, however overtime they become second nature.) With a twist control on a Joystick you find yourself using the rudder without consciously being aware of it. An extra Throttle stick is optional too as most Primary Joysticks will have that axis built in...

The problematic situation is that EAW v1.2 recognizes by auto selecting (rather than manually) only one game controller. If you only have one joystick it will work in the Windows Controller ID#1 slot. If you have two game controller devices, EAW will usually only recognize the controller in the Windows Controller ID#2 slot. Because of this EAW is not under normal situations compatible with an External Rudder. However EAW may (but not always) under unique situations successfully recognize a separate secondary type of controller (such as separate rudder pedals or throttle) plugged into different ports on the computer. Read on for solutions.

Your chances improve for secondary controller detection when a few special situations are met; One being you have special software to virtually combine them into one Device ID (sometimes your Joystick/HOTAS software has support for legacy games). Two they are physically linked (connected together and they connect to the PC by a single cable). Three they use different types of ports (One using a USB the other a Gameport) on the computer. I also find that most set ups have a problem with extra Rudder Pedals when the Joystick already has a Twist-Handle built in, Thus EAW gets confused and doesn't allow either device to function.

Three (3) Device Warning:

• If you have three physically different devices and if they are all listed as one DeviceID# in the Windows Gaming Control Panel, Such as Stick, Throttle, Rudder on ID1, (most likely linked in some way, via software or hardware board but with no legacy game support software/setting). These linked grouped devices may or may not work with EAWv1.2, Its a toss up. You may find the Rudder axis may actually be controlled by the Throttle levers. I'm not aware of any other solution in this scenario other than to remove the Pedals or the Throttle to allow the other to work. If you have a solution, I'd like to hear from you.

Let's try to get the 2nd Control to work with EAW v1.2 now.

1) For the setup of your external throttle or rudder pedals, if you have confirmed already that your primary controller is working properly in game, Install and Connect your Throttle stick or Rudder pedals as directed by the manufacture.

2) Find out where your Throttle or Rudder Pedals are on the list in Windows and write it down. Device ID2 is where it should be at, with again, your primary flight stick should still be the preferred Device ID1. If not move your flight Joystick to ID1 (first on the list/work with older game option).

3) Load up the game and go to "CONFIGURE GAME" > "CONTROL". You should be on the 'Controller Setup' Screen. There you will see the first four lines, make sure they are all moved to the left most setting. The Joystick is assigned for Flight Control and Rudder is Rudder and Throttle is Throttle, Camera is Mouse.

If all went well with EAW detecting your secondary controller, none of them will be grayed out and you can try a Quick mission to test both your controllers out.

If any of them are grayed out then see my 'Troubleshoot Help Document' and read the Joystick troubleshoot area, topic titled 'Combining Controls' for the explanations and options you now have. Then come back here.

4) Goto step 3 and see if any of the control options are grayed out. If everything worked out then you can fly to see if your controls are responding correctly. If any are grayed out then you need to see my 'Troubleshoot Help Document' and read the Joystick troubleshoot area, again.

(For further troubleshooting continue reading this document from top to bottom, also read my separate 'Troubleshoot Help Document' for details about all the control problems and issues you may experience).

 

*Ever wonder which rudder pedals are actually featured as a no-named picture in the official EAW User Manual on Page 16? I'm almost sure they are the 'ThrustMaster Rudder Control System' PC Game Pedals that where made first in 1993-then years later.

TRACKIR;
EAW has no direct built-in support, but if it has a mouse-look mode that the TrackIR 3 or 4 (5 should work) has been used with in the past by other players to look around. However, when used with EAW you only will be-able to get 2dof, full 6dof control is not possible. When you configure your flight controls (Keys and Joystick Buttons) for zoom-in and out, 2dof becomes expectable. With some setup tuning, Mouse-Emulation in TrackIR, works very well with EAW.

You may consider upgrading with The Vector Expansion. The trackir device works much better with the newer track-clip pro providing a lot more stability than the older reflective dots method on a baseball cap. (There is also the added advantage that the clip can be attached to a pair of headphones). For your reference there is a third-party version of the track-clip pro (called the DelanClip if your interested).

You will want to use the series 5 trackir software (there are several versions of the 5 series software available, not all work for every system, 5.2 seems to work with Win7). There are also alternative tracker software that work for these devices. Some you may find cheaper or even free. Just make sure the one you pick, supports mouse-emulation, since its required to work with EAW.

Follow these steps:

1. Load up the TRACKIR software.

2. You can get the view to re-center by pressing and releasing SNAP REAR or SNAP FRONT (preferably on the POV Hat switch on your joystick) to reset the TRACKIR view to center. (This will provide centering and give you a stable view to Aim good when needed). This does not require mapping the centering function of the TrackIR software to one's joystick.

3. Map the TrackIR pause function to the same key on your joystick that you've mapped internal padlock. (This will Toggle the TrackIR On/Off and allowing for EAW's own padlock view to track the target when needed).

4. Create a copy of the default profile with the pause mapping change and rename it 'EAW'.

5. In the 'Titles' section of the TrackIR software, there is one for 'mouse emulation'. One can assign one's EAW profile to this and it means that one no longer need set your TrackIR to 'exclusive' for EAW, which is helpful if one is using TrackIR for other games. (possibly tick the EAW profile as 'exclusive', if your having problems with mous emulation, This assures the EAW profile is used).

6. Run the MOUSE EMULATOR program TIRMouse.exe before you start up EAW. (The Mouse Emulator program is located in C:\Program Files\NaturalPoint\TrackIR)

7. In the TRACKIR software Choose MOUSE EMULATOR to bring up a window. In that window check ‘X AXIS AUTO PANNING’ and move the slide bar all the way to the right. This should give you a value of 95.

8. Load up EAW.

9. In EAW under CONTROLLER SETUP make sure the CAMERA POSITION is selected for MOUSE. You may need to SWAP MOUSE Y axis.

10. Also you may need to adjust the EAW Camera Sensitivity (located in Setup>Controls) to as low as possible, all the way to the left for best results.

11. Play EAW.

Force Feedback:
Force Feedback works very well with EAW, It's nice to feel the forces as you fire the guns or start the engine up! The best part of the high sophisticated force feedback functions is it alerts you from bullet hits from the rear. You can even judge when your going to stall as the plane is buffeting, this allows you to push your plane a tad bit more: this is a huge advantage, particularly when you are learning your planes Flight Model with specifically set difficulty settings. Most players that have gone from a normal stick to a FF stick have often wondered how they could have ever flown the game without it, its truly something to consider getting.

The rest of the senses of the FF just add to the excitement!! True FF sticks like the MS Sidewinder use two motors to drive the stick, one for the X axis and one for Y. They can be programmed freely in games to move in any way you want. Distance, speed and force are fully programmable so in effect you'd have far more then 100 possible movements and that's exactly how it is programmed in EAW. European Air War has been programmed to work with any DirectX-compatible Force Feedback Joystick, and has been tested by MicroProse with Microsoft's Sidewinder Force Feedback Pro, Logitech's Wingman Force, and CHProduct's ForceFX. I've tested it with Microsoft's Sidewinder Force Feedback 2. (Note: Versions before EAW v1.2 disabled force feedback on some Logitech Joysticks, patch to v1.2 to resolve the issue.) Note: One lacking feature is that the rudder control on most if not all sticks, don't have FF, maybe some rudder pedals have, but I don't recall ever seeing any.

Newer, more commonly manufactured Force Feedback equivalent sticks use what is called 'Rumble' or 'Force Vibration', These sticks usually use a spring for centering (instead of tension from motors). The motors they use for vibration are smaller than what full fledge FF Sticks use. However, these FF equivalent sticks still are using the same FF instructions from the game to provide low grade feedback to you stick. Don't let that keep you from getting a rumble or vibration stick as some feedback is better than none. Note: Realize different games and sticks from different manufactures will behave differently than EAW or a full fledge FF stick.

FF sticks will provide spring centering resistances with motor tension. The physical resistance in a normal stick uses a Spring. The Spring is there to give you some resistance and automatically centers your stick. You only need enough spring tension to return the stick to the center perfectly every time. Any more tension just creates extra hassles like wrestling for control of the aircraft, sometimes resulting in busted stick shafts.

In the Games Setup Control menu, three Force Feedback options are listed; "Disabled," "Arcade," and "Realistic,". If these options are all grayed out, your joystick does not support Force Feedback.

If your joystick supports Force Feedback but you don't want to use it, select "Disabled,"(0). The other two options, "Arcade"(1) and "Realistic,"(2) set different types of Force Feedback responses. "Realistic" places an emphasis on the forces of flying (such as engine stalls and G-force effects); "Arcade" on the other hand, will exaggerate 'action' forces (such as firing your guns and taking damage). This is in the eaw.ini file, below it is set to FF ON: Arcade Mode.

Force Feedback=1

Force Feedback Gain:
Beneath these settings is a slide bar entitled "Force Feedback Gain," which sets the overall strength of Force Feedback responses from Low to High. This One setting applies to both Arcade and Realistic forces. You may want to increase it when using the Realistic setting and reduce it when using the Arcade setting. As Realistic will be softer and Arcade will be meaner. I find it's best with EAW to use the default force values with your Joysticks Software, and allow the in-game slider to adjust the force strength. Its just something to keep in mind, It all really depends on you and how you want the game to behave. In the eaw.ini file you can manually set a value. Default is 7500, max is 10000

Force Feedback Gain=7500

 
The Forces:
Most or all forces seem to be tied in with the Sounds that get played at the same time as the forces are applied.

MG Fire (force depends on cal)
Cannon Fire (force depends on mm)
Rocket Fire
Control Surfaces (delays)
Wind Rushing over the Ailerons (Increased Speed/Wind; Structural)
Tight Turns/G-force; Structural
Buffeting
Stalling (Before actual stall)
Gear Fully Locked
Lift Off on Take off
Wheels Touch Down on Landing
Low Speed Flight (loose stick)
Stick Centering ("centering spring")
Control Surfaces Compress (Tougher Stick Centering at Higher Speeds)
Stalls (Stick Centering Force is turned off)
Engine Torque Engine Start (depends on type of engine)
Bullet/Damage Hits
Bird Impacts
Flak Hits (different forces)
Belly Landing On Water

 

Intro Stalls/Spins and Wobble:
As far as stalls/spins go, one of the great things about EAW, as compared to it's competitors, is the huge penalty you pay for "yank and bank" fighting. You can't just throw the stick around in EAW (this is consistent with everything that you'll read about real fighter aircraft).

However the "automatic" transition from stall to spin is not necessarily realistic in EAW, but it does give considerable incentive to learn to fly the plane, not to yank the stick! You can overcame your beginner tendency to stall frequently by thinking in terms of "rounding" maneuvers; nothing sharp. This may solve your problem. The following information printed below about Flight Sensitivity and Deadzone settings will greatly help you out. Keep reading here.

Wobbling flight is another effect you can cure by reading and using the Flight Sensitivity and Deadzone settings. Explained very quickly you can experiment first with the "Flight Sensitivity" and then "JoystickDeadZone" settings.

DeadZone is an area around the stick axis in which stick movement produces no effect (in short, a "dead zone" around the stick axis!). The settings range from 0-20, so 10 is exactly in the middle. The higher the DeadZone setting, the farther the stick will have to travel before control input takes place. The lower the DeadZone, the less the stick has to move before the control input registers. Flight sensitivity comes into play after you have moved the stick beyond the JoystickDeadZone. Flight Sensitivity ranges up to 1.5. The higher this setting, the more control response you should notice for a given amount of stick movement.

The combination of a low JoystickDeadZone setting and a high Flight Sensitivity would normally lead to a "wobbling" effect. You may want to try and increase your JoystickDeadZone to close to 20 and reduce your Flight Sensitivity to a very low value. This should make your airplane stable. Unfortunately your airplane will not only be stable, it most likely will not be very suitable for combat! since there will be a great lack of maneuverability. So once your plane is stable, begin experimenting with gradually moving the values back toward the opposite extreme until you achieve a good balance between stability and gameplay. So decrease JoystickDeadZone and Increase Flight Sensitivity one at a time. (It's hard to give exact figures since joysticks are different; some models are more sensitive than others).

Read below for more in-depth setting and testing of these stick values.

JoystickDeadZone:
The joystick Dead Zone is the area around the center of the stick axis, where the joystick does not respond. The setting for it determines how far you have to move the stick before control input takes place, any range of movement of the joystick's axes in that zone, the aircraft will not respond.

The performance of your plane will be dependent on the combination your Flight Sensitivity and JoystickDeadZone values, your own joystick quality / condition, and your own flying ability. So you may find you have to adjust your JoystickDeadZone up or down with the addition to Flight Sensitivity (FS is described below in the next topic).

A lower JoystickDeadZone value reduces the amount of Dead Zone, allowing control inputs to take place sooner, making the plane responsive sooner and to slighter movement of the stick, you may get tighter turns and better response in Pitch and Roll the lower it is. A higher setting increases the amount of Dead Zone, delaying the time when input begins to take place, making for a more stable plane. Also this tweaking of the JoystickDeadZone value can often help to smooth out a shaky stick or improve response on a sluggish one.

This setting is only found in the eaw.ini , there is no in game slider for this. A Value of 6 would be a small deadzone and 10 would be a larger deadzone. If you have a good quality joystick that holds its center position well, then you only need a small deadzone as long as you have a steady hand (0 min). A Value of 4 or less seems pretty good for modern Joysticks (from late 1990's and into the 2000's). Maximum value is 20. Try a value of 3 to 5 to cut some of that engine torque or the occasional side rudder. Default value for EAWv1.2 is 10 (Middle Range).

JoystickDeadZone=4

In general I would recommend a higher JoystickDeadZone setting to begin with until you have gotten a better feel for the Flight Models. Then gradually change your settings to the improved settings of a high Flight Sensitivity / Low DeadZone setting. See the Flight Sensitivity topic below to set and test Flight Sensitivity and other Joystick settings.

Flight Sensitivity:
This slider is located in the games control setup section. This adjusts how sensitive your stick will be with the Flight Model on all axis at once. (You may also have stick software which allows you to adjust stick sensitivity outside of the game, as found in your stick software. This is different than EAW's Flight Model Sensitivity however it can also effect the input response).

Flight Sensitivity controls the amount of control input you apply to the FM from moving the stick by any amount AFTER it passes through the Dead Zone (read the previous section on the "JoystickDeadZone" for guidance). If your stick is overly sensitive, a very slight movement will result in a great deal of control response. On the other hand, an extremely low sensitivity setting will result in very little control input for the same amount of stick movement. You will find physically, individual brands of joysticks are more or less sensitive than others, and that these settings may have to be tweaked for the different sticks. 

If you use different custom FMs sets (a group of plane parameters modified by the same persons), you will find that every time you fly with a different set of FMs it may be difficult to adjust to them. This is because they each have their own handling characteristics and each FM set responds differently to control inputs. This can also be an issue from plane to plane. Meaning , ultimately you may need to adjust this sensitivity per plane, every time you change planes. (Note: it's possible with the newer source code modified games to use a mix batch of FMs, so this becomes even more important).

The lower settings will give you a more stable, less prone to stall, but slower response to your inputs, not to mention losing some of your planes ability to turn tight. The higher setting will give you a tighter turn, more prone to stall, but faster response to your inputs. You must have sensitivity high enough to give you full control deflection: if it's too low you can't turn as fast as you should (a very bad thing in a dogfight). However, if it's set too high the plane will be very unstable and it'll be hard to line up a shot - especially in 'pilot full zoom mode'.

You have to find the sweet spot where you can maneuver more freely without having to worry about stalls and spins at critical moments. The more realistic the flight model and the more realistic the in game settings are, a lower setting you may find will be better. You may find giving up a little turn performance for a more stable plane is best. This will help avoid Spins and Blackouts while sacrificing some performance of a tight turn. A less sensitive configuration is at an advantage at higher altitudes because planes lose turn performance and stall earlier.

The lowest setting by the in game slider is 0.800000 and the highest value by the in game slider is 1.200000 The default value is 1.000000. For finer control of this setting you can manually enter values in the eaw.ini file under;

Flight Sensitivity= 

The maximum manually entered value for FM sensitivity is 1.5000. That should mean that .75 is actually only halfway and 1.0 is two thirds of full sensitivity. The higher the sensitivity setting, the more response you get from the controls for a given amount of movement.

If you find that your over controlling and spinning out too often. It maybe best for you to set the slider to the lowest value of 0.8000 to begin with and work your way back up from there. You may find a slight adjustment set at 0.9000 may seem comfortable for most planes. Some Planes/FM's are more forgiving than others so, experiment! If you feel you need more guidance keep reading and follow the directions below in the next topic. 

To over come some of the learning curve and having to reset the values again when using many FM sets/or Planes is to write down the separate eaw.ini JoystickDeadZone and Flight Sensitivity values for each of the FMs/or plane type you have/or use.

You may go as far as having several copies of the eaw.ini file saved already with the appropriate settings to use for a particular Flight Model Modification. If you use sub-folders for FM sets (most older custom sets require subfolders), then go and find your primary eaw.ini file then copy it into each of your other installed FM set sub-folders, so that when you enable a particular set from its sub-folder into the main games root folder that you want to fly (via a manager program perhaps), you will also enable that particular ini file with the appropriate settings for that particular Flight Model Modification. (Anytime you work on these ini files, make sure you work on it inside its own sub-folder. This way you will be able to go into each individual ini file and tweak your joystick sensitivity and dead zone settings so that it responds properly per aircraft Flight Model set.)

Testing Sensitivity And DeadZone:
Set the Flight Sensitivity Slider in the game to Low (near left Side) and JoystickDeadZone to high for now. Also place your Joystick's out of game software Stick/Axis Sensitivities to their default. See how the plane of your choice behaves with these settings. Now once you've tried the game out a bit, you can take the time to do some formal flight testing to get the all sensitivities just right. Try the next test with your current settings, instructions follow.

Quick Roll Rate Test:
To get an accurate representation of what the flight model is supposed to act like for each aircraft, it should be tested by roll rate: If your Flight Sensitivity is reduced too far, then your plane's ailerons will not produce the kind of response they should---so your plane won't roll as fast as it's capable of. Also with too high of DeadZone, the roll will not begin as quickly as it should.

Do the flight testing offline. Get a stopwatch and time a Spit 1A in a level 180 degree turn using full stick deflection; start the turn at about 240mph. Keep increasing the sensitivity until you've got the fastest rate of turn. If it's already set high, decrease it until you notice turn rate falling off, then nudge sensitivity up a touch and leave it there.

If you don't have a Sweet spot set by now, your still at a disadvantage. See the next set of instructions below.

Finding The Sweet Spot:
There really is no general setting for any one Joystick, Plane FM and Slider Settings with Joystick Software Settings. There is only a very small sweet spot in the FM slider movement which seems to be perfect, where you find this 'zone' depends to your system. Here is the way to find it:

1-Set the sensitivity slider in EAW to max (right side), make a test flight in a 109E4 and pull the stick backward, if the plane stalls very easy, it means your flight is functioning normally go to step 2. If the plane seems stiff and is difficult at stalling, you need to increase the Joystick Sensitivity out of the game and in your Joystick Software.

2. Set the sensitivity slider in EAW to min (left side), make a test flight in a 109E4 and pull the stick backward, if the plane is very stiff and stable, it means your flight is functioning normally go to step 3. If it stalls easy and turns tight, you need to reduce the Joystick Sensitivity out of the game in your Joystick Software.

3-Now that you have the Joystick Software settings corrected, set the sensitivity-slider in EAW to max (to the right side) and get a stopwatch and time a 109E4, at 100m from the ground and make test turns with full power, turning as tight as you possible (full stick deflection) without stalling, but almost (When the HUD Display in the lower left is Yellow.) 

4-Stop the timer at the end of a 360degree turn. The E4 will require about 16 seconds at 225km/h with 100m altitude and should stall late while in a constant turn.  (You should get at around 230-235km/h about a 15sec duration for the full 360degree turn.)

5-Before each test afterwards reduce the sensitivity (slider left, notch by notch) until the plane starts to lose its Turn Performance (until you notice turn rate falling off or spins) with elevators at there maximum.

6-Once you found the spin, up the sensitivity slightly (slider right, just by one notch). This should now give you the full benefit, the sweet spot for that particular plane, joystick and settings.

Note: If you get a new stick, you'll need to go through the process again.

Swap Mouse Axis:
You can invert either axis of the mouse here. 0 /1 Toggle.

Swap Mouse X=0
Swap Mouse Y=0

Camera Sensitivity:
Sets how fast the camera will move, typically with the mouse.

Camera Sensitivity=5.000000

Windows Joystick:
If your Joystick is acting strangely; switching the value to a 1 should help. A value of 1 switches input from EAW's self pre-programmed routines to native Windows API self routines. This setting is only available by opening your eaw.in file with notepad. 0 /1 Toggle. If you see this to be Zero, change it back to 1.

Windows Joystick=0

The Joystick (Device1) is assigned for Flight Control and Rudder is Rudder on Device1 and Throttle is Throttle on Device1. These are normally setup from within the game in Controller Setup screen; all set to the near left setting. There may come a time you'll have to move these around to something else, but it's unlikely...

The 'Flight Control' is the important one; it’s the main instrument for flying your aircraft, typically, this is set to Joystick. The selections for the other control options might change or be limited depending on what you select here.

[Remappable Keys]
FLIGHT CONTROL=Joystick
CAMERA CONTROL=Mouse
RUDDER CONTROL=Rudder
THROTTLE CONTROL=Throttle
 

To remove an assignment of a key without assigning a new function from within the Game, select the function you want to remove and then press the [Pause Break] key as the new assignment, this will remove and blank out the key assignment.

EAW.INI:
You can also do this in the .ini file, but it is more complicated.  Note how the names of keyboard keys are in upper case letters, while the names of joystick buttons are in both upper and lower case.
See the section below titled 'EXTRA NOTES About CONTROLS' if you want to try.

Backup Note:
Just remember once you have configured your controls, make a backup of your new eaw.ini file (its in your game folder) somewhere for safe keeping. Otherwise when a mistake happens with the game or the file (It will happen!) you can easily loose all your settings, EAW is weird about something's like this. It's because EAW does a new redetect of your hardware during each run.

Provided here is an example to help you get familiar with assigning buttons. Then additional instructions to help you out written afterwards. (To assign buttons to functions from within the game, go to CONFIGURE GAME then CONTROLS then ADVANCED.)

Joystick with 4 buttons and 4 way hat Example:
This is an example assignment of a Joystick with only a 4-way Hat and four buttons. Just drop in to your eaw.ini to replace the default keys. See how they work out for you. If you have a 8-way Hat, you may want to add either standard or snap views after testing. The urge to assign FIRE ALL GUNS to a single button should be avoided, it actually uses much more ammo since it's firing the Machine guns and Cannons at the same time.

FRONT VIEW=Joystick_Btn_2
RIGHT VIEW=POV_hat_Right
LEFT VIEW=POV_hat_Left
UP FRONT VIEW=POV_hat_Forward
SNAPVIEW REAR=POV_hat_Back
PADLOCK CURRENT TARGET=Joystick_Btn_4
FIRE SELECTED GUNS=Joystick_Btn_1
TARGET CLOSEST ENEMY=Joystick_Btn_3

All About Your Control Choices:
Now that you read all that above and I showed you some examples of what functions to place on your controllers buttons. It's up to you to decide what you need best, read on!

Situational Awareness (S.A.)
In order to survive in a dogfight you have to have know where all the other planes are in the sky; as the battle progresses the situation changes very quickly, You will get focused on one or two bandits.

To stay on top of the fight you have to continuously jump around between several different views - simultaneously using target functions to see who is where, and what their speed and altitude is (HUD data). Good S.A. is one of the main skills which makes a decent pilot; bad S.A. is the main reason rookie pilots get killed. Before you can even begin to develop this skill, you need to make sure that you have all the game functions you need at your fingertips.

 
In Flight Display Data (HUD)
Start a game and check you have all the following functions switched ON. Using the Game Pause function ([ALT P]) can help you relax as your examining each display type.

• TARGET DIRECTOR DISPLAY ON/OFF=ALT D Toggles the display of a X Marker around the edge of the screen which shows you the direction of the bandit when he is not in your direct view (EX: off screen when you are in cockpit view, it only pops up when he's off screen)
• TARGET RANGE DISPLAY ON/OFF=ALT R Toggles the display of target range. You'll need to get a bandit in view to see range.
• TARGET ID DISPLAY ON/OFF=ALT I Toggles the display of target name or plane type. You'll need to get a bandit in view to see name and plane type.
• TARGET INFO DISPLAY ON/OFF=ALT T Toggles the target HUD (bottom right, in red)
• FLIGHT INFO DISPLAY ON/OFF=ALT F Toggles your HUD (bottom left, in green)
• TARGET BOX DISPLAY ON/OFF=ALT O Toggles the display of a square box on the target. Its Best left off if you have the other displays turned on as it gets a bit crowded making difficult to see the actual targeted plane.

Keyboard & Joystick Setup
The keyboard is a secondary controller while playing European Air War. Keystroke commands are most commonly used to change the viewpoint while flying, to enter text in certain fields (naming pilots, for example), and to control things like the throttles, landing gear, flaps and brakes. Mostly anything you don't have assigned to a Joystick or an other controller. Once you have your Joystick/Flight Controls and Buttons mapped out, the rest of the keys can remain at default. You then can use the available and updated EAW Quick Reference Sheets or Key Cards to refer too during flight.

Below is a list of the most important game commands (ie views and target buttons). Try to get as many of these functions as possible set somewhere on your stick. Buying a stick with lots of buttons increases your options. The easy to find keys such as the spacebar, enter key, and the mouse buttons are next in line once you've used up all your stick buttons.

You can just go ahead and try things out with default keyboard settings, but if you find you are having a tough time, unable to keep track of the fight (and you will), get your stick setup with lots of views and targeting functions. You'll never be-able to play effectively if you only use the front and rear views. Also if you don't learn to switch through the many Targeting functions other than the standard [T] key (Target Closest), like the one for finding Friendly Wingman, it will make team play difficult. You also need to know how to use Flaps and Gear quickly, as well as the Map and Cockpit Zoom. All these options available to you are needed to be successful and to improve your skills.

The minimum what a personal configuration needs to provide to the player:
1. The player needs to be able to look around quickly, to spot and keep the target in sight.
2. The player needs to be able to switch from target to target. Closest enemy, next enemy, closest friend and next friend. When first learning, if you don't play team games, 'Target closest enemy' and 'Target next enemy' are enough. 3. The player needs to be able to use all his Controls without effort: like Elevator, Aileron, Rudder, Throttle, Flaps, Undercarriage (Gear), Drop-tank release, choose Bombs/Rockets and release them.

View Flying Styles
Everyone has their own style of flying, ie the way they use different combinations of views and target buttons.

Almost everyone shoots from the straight-ahead cockpit view although you can shoot from padlock if you like a challenge. The Veteran marksmen will be shooting from one of the zoom modes in cockpit view. If you choose the zoomed option try shooting with your plane and the enemy plane up close with your sight zoomed in only one or two steps for best view.

Internal Views
You will benefit from setting your views up on your controllers hat/pov switch. A Good joystick will have 8-way functions. Snap Views are ideal, you can mix those in with standard views too if you want.

Note: SNAP VIEWS have shifted view points (added in 1.28a/c) in the Virtual Cockpit to see 'around' the planes pilot seat and structure better than standard views. Also all snap views in the stock game where designed by MicroProse to overlap each other as well so you don't miss a thing.

*standard [F1] Front view (2D Cockpit, in the cockpit looking straight ahead) New pilots who always fly in the forward facing cockpit view get killed quickly. So if you're in a 1 v 1 engagement, you can get by with just forward view, rear snap, and padlock toggle. You may want to have the front up view also so you can see above the front windshield of your cockpit during turns.

*padlock view or padlock toggle (locks your view on whatever plane you have targeted; toggle might be best) This is often the best solution for newbie's and people without a 8-way Hat Switch. It provides a simple setup that the player can use to automatically follow the target. Padlock can be confusing or disorientated in the beginning, but with the right configuration and after some hours of usage things become easier.

*snap views The 'snap views' consist in 9 different keys (By default the snap views are programmed to the Keyboards Numpad.), every key alone represents one view direction (front, front right, front left, right, left, rear, rear right, rear left, 90° up). If you push one of these keys, the view will snap to that direction and if you release the key, it will snap back to the front view. Snapping Back automatically is very important to keep orientation. If you always fly within the cockpit, you'll be using snap views to look around and target buttons or keys to identify planes. With a lot of planes in the sky, you'll need to jump around all the different views regularly.

MOST IMPORTANT regarding the snap views is, to know that you can combine the 'snap view 90° up' button, with any of the horizontal snap views, to get a 45° up view!!  Example: Push 'snap view right' + 'snap view 90° up' at same time and you will get = 'snap view 45° up right'.

To make it possible for you to look at every view direction, you must use all 9 functions, programming the 8 horizontal 'snap views' to your Joysticks 8 way Hat switch(POV) and then set the ninth function, 'snap view 90° up' to a button on your stick base, which you can reach easily without your finger leaving the throttle slider (this is also very important to maintain a good dogfight!). With this common view system setup you can look all around while fighting, easily!! like the following:

EAW.ini [Remappable Keys]

SNAPVIEW FRONT=POV_hat_Forward
SNAPVIEW RIGHT FRONT=POV_hat_Forward-Right
SNAPVIEW RIGHT=POV_hat_Right
SNAPVIEW RIGHT REAR=POV_hat_Back-Right
SNAPVIEW LEFT FRONT=POV_hat_Forward-Left
SNAPVIEW LEFT=POV_hat_Left
SNAPVIEW LEFT REAR=POV_hat_Back-Left
SNAPVIEW REAR=POV_hat_Back

SNAPVIEW UP=Joystick_Btn_7

POV can also be assigned to emulate the "mouse view(pan view)". You will most likely want to tone down the sensitivity for the camera to its minimum, this is so that the movements of the POV switch are soft and not abrupt.

*mouse view can be used to look around easily, keeping more than one target in sight at the same time and it works well in 'Full Realistic" Missions without icons. However the disadvantage is one of your hands is tide up, rather than being ready on the keyboard or the stick buttons.

*zoom in and zoom out (magnifies your gunsight - great for long range shots)

*instrument view or a snap view (in a long battle, you need to watch your engine temperature; if you're not sure what's what turn on instrument labels with [ALT F1], but note that instrument labels don't work in the virtual cockpit.)

*cockpit toggle (switches cockpit off so you can see without the cockpit being displayed, allows you to see more.)

External Views
Some people don't think it's very fair to use external views. Some just don't like them. A lot of very good pilots always fly within the cockpit. It's up to you. A real life pilot would have much better visibility than you can get on a computer monitor: external views sometimes seem to compensate for this. If you use external views, you probably don't need all the snap views on your hat switch. This frees the hat up for other functions such as zoom in and out. However, you MUST at least have the 'rear snap view' (or standard rear view) somewhere on your stick.

With an external style, you'll probably be using the external camera view ([F9] and mouse pan) a lot to look around when its safe to do so, when there is no near bandits around - as always, clicking away with target buttons to identify planes (assigning some of the target commands to your mouse buttons can be a good way to work with mouse pan but I'd advise keeping 'target closest enemy' and 'target next enemy' on your stick where you can get at them more quickly).

A good technique is to jump around between player/target (to see the bandit), [F9] (to fly the plane), and [F1] (with toggle cockpit set off [Keypad .]) to shoot or chase. You'll also need to use padlock occasionally - eg in a close quarters scissors fight - so keep it on your stick buttons somewhere or use the default quick key [Numpad *].

*[F9] view (External view following your plane - also cycles through other planes in the game. If you get killed early in a sweep for example, you can watch the rest of the fight from the perspective of any plane in the game.) Its useful for taking off or landing to see what you're airplane is doing and to see how close to the ground you really are.

*mouse pan (in [F9], the mouse moves your viewpoint around) In combat you'll also want to use this (with your left hand for the mouse and stick in the right hand).

*player / target view (external view) Is good in dogfights since it gives you a very clear picture of the two planes' relative positions.

*target / player view (same as player / target but from the other end) Is good for evading a bandit close on your six, or to quickly check what he's up to.

Some sticks have a trackball - if you've got one it's ideal for the camera pan.

(There are also a few other external views, but these are not so relevant for fighter combat). The [F12] key (movie mode) can be used to look around at the action. If you're not in the heat of battle, you can put your plane on autopilot and watch the action unfold, or just admire the view. Use the mouse to move around and zoom in and out. You may find yourself spending as much time just looking around this way as actually flying. Just like watching a good WWII movie!

Targeting Functions:
(in order of importance)
You need the 'Target Buttons' in a quick reachable configuration. Try to get some of the more important ones on your sticks upper buttons. Since we often play with Display Huds On, the player will need to be able to switch from target to target and wingman to wingman and sometimes from ground target to ground target. Of course this is pretty unrealistic in WWII, but it helps to overcome virtual sight problems, ex-specially for newbie's and snap viewers, this is the only way to play.

*TARGET CLOSEST ENEMY (absolutely vital: you've got to know where the closest bandit is)
*TARGET NEXT ENEMY (when held down this target function will cycle through all the enemy)
*TARGET CLOSEST FRIENDLY
*TARGET NEXT FRIENDLY (when held down this target function will cycle through all the friendly)

Here are the other Targeting Functions available to you and are not normally needed on your Joystick.

TARGET PREVIOUS ENEMY
TARGET PREVIOUS FRIENDLY
TARGET NEXT GROUND
TARGET PREVIOUS GROUND
TARGET BEST GROUND
TARGET CLOSEST RUNWAY
DESELECT TARGET

Other Important Buttons On The Stick:
(in order of importance)
Try to get some of the more important ones on the base buttons of your stick.

*flaps up
*flaps down
Note: Planes often turn better with usage of the flaps. Having the buttons on your Joystick for quick access is ideal. *additional guns On/Off
*landing gear toggle
Note: The gear causes drag and can be used in a critical situation to help slow the plane down quickly.
*zoom in and zoom out

Important Buttons On The Stick For Online Play:
(in order of importance)

Padlock
Padlock toggle
Zoom
cockpit toggle
Target closest, next, prev enemy
4 snap views
All Guns (Z)
clear padlock, target
target next friendly
flaps up
flaps down
gear up/down
snap instrument view
screencapture

As an unorthodox configuration you can use hat switches for functions you need quickly in a dogfight--zoom, cockpit toggle, etc. instead of using it for views; instead follow your opponent with padlock, and use the snap views in the base of the stick to keep track of your orientation.

Some players may want to use the hat switch as a 8-views option with another button used for UP, which would allow 16 views in total, when UP and one of the other views are pressed.

Don't take the above ideas as being the only ideas - experiment offline until you have a configuration which works for you.

View Flight Testing:
You could maybe try your view and targeting setup out in a bomber escort mission. Use your views and target buttons to stay in station with the bombers and to locate the bandits.

Try to perform a series of looping attacks from the bombers' high six: dive to challenge a bandit making a run at the bombers then loop back up to your station above and to the rear of the bomber formation ready for the next one. Climbing back up again helps to conserve your energy: if you just run about like mad, turning hard all the time, you'll get too slow to attack anyone. Don't chase a bandit once he turns and runs or you'll quickly get separated from the bombers and so won't be able to help them. You don't have to get any kills in this mission, just protect the bombers. Force an attacking bandit to break off then immediately identify the next threat to the bombers.

When you get the hang of it, you should be able to use a combination of views and target buttons to keep track of the fight from your position on the bombers high six (camera pan in F9 mode can be very useful in a busy sky). If you must, pause the game every so often to look around (alt P). Once you get familiar with your setup, you'll learn to keep track of the fight without pausing: you'll need to because you can't pause the game online (well, not without protests anyway).

Also, if you can fly the mission as described above, you've just learned how to boom and zoom.

This section of the document is to provide information about miscellaneous control/key usage.
 

Modifying the EAW.INI:
You can also assign or map keys and buttons in the eaw.ini file, but it is more complicated than doing it within the game. If you want to give it a try, familiarize yourself with the structure of the .ini file. Open your eaw.ini file in your games folder with Notepad and read the information in this section of this document. Also a good read is my EAW.INI Help Document which explains in brief some more aspects of the controls.

Joystick EAW.INI Commands:
Here is how you type out the Joystick functions for the Remappable Keys section in the EAW.INI file that opens with Notepad.

At this point in time you may want to map button 1 to FIRE SELECTED GUNS and button 2 for FIRE SELECTED WEAPONS. The rest of the buttons you can map to other things you need quickly during combat.

Joystick_Btn_1
Joystick_Btn_2
Joystick_Btn_3
Joystick_Btn_4
Joystick_Btn_5
Joystick_Btn_6
Joystick_Btn_7
Joystick_Btn_8

This is how a 4 way hat is typed out.
You may want to map these to the views, snap views or a function.

POV_hat_Left
POV_hat_Right
POV_hat_Forward
POV_hat_Back

This is how the extra 8 way hat is typed out.

POV_hat_Forward-Left
POV_hat_Forward-Right
POV_hat_Back-Left
POV_hat_Back-Right

 
Lesser Known Key WORDS;
These are the WORDS you will find in the eaw.ini file when you open it with Notepad, they are listed under the [Remappable Keys] category and are placed after the = symbol of each Function. The WORDS listed here are typically the harder too remember ones for the keys.

The standard arrow keys are UP DOWN LEFT RIGHT
Note: I couldn't determine the WORD for Caps Lock, it appears un-assignable.

Common Changes from the Default;
You may find you want a better Keyboard configuration than the default, perhaps a simpler setup. One common change a lot of virtual pilots make is the following; Changing the Pilot Map from the complex default locations:

[ALT M] changed to [M]

Freeing up some KEYS;
If you are using a Joystick, Throttle and Rudder then you can remove the keyboard equivalent key-presses if you do not intend to use the keyboard as flight controls by removing the key assignment after the "=" sign. Just like the following:

STICK BACK=
STICK FORWARD=
STICK RIGHT=
STICK LEFT=
RUDDER RIGHT=
RUDDER LEFT=
RUDDER CENTER=
RUDDER FULL RIGHT=
RUDDER FULL LEFT=

Note: Among the keys freed mention above, there are other keys without any assignment at all. Then there are semi-free keys that have a few assignments to them. These free and semi-free keys can all be used to remap the keyboard to your liking, you can proceed most of the WORDS with SHIFT or CTRL or ALT, such as SHIFT EQUALS.

WEP or 'War Emergency Power' ;
Some will say that in the original stock game, WEP is modeled as 100% power on the throttle and your engine will overheat at that setting within 5 mins or so. You can turn it off by reducing the throttle a bit, perhaps back to 80 or 85%. Also if you manipulate the throttle during the course of your flight, by reducing it when you don't really need full throttle, such as in dives and a few other maneuvers, then you won't have overheating problems.

Mouse:
If you do not have a joystick attached to your system, the mouse is likely to be the primary controller for European Air War. As a flight control the mouse re-centers as soon as you stop moving it. The mouse input is not relative to an imaginary position so you most likely will need the keyboard in combination to the mouse to fly. The mouse motions used to fly the plane are nose down is forward, nose up is backwards, then stick left and right. To fly a loop you have to pull the mouse towards yourself, lift it off the pad and start over. In a turning fight you would bank with the mouse while pressing the 'up-elevator' key to help turn...

If you want to fly with the Mouse; First, update to version 1.1 of European Air War. Then fly any plane in the game before quitting. Double-click on the EAW.INI file in your European Air War folder. In the [Remappable Keys] section, change the line to read "Flight Controls=Mouse." Make sure that nothing else is assigned to "Mouse" in the control setup. Save the EAW.INI file and start the game again.

Even if you do have both a mouse and a joystick, the mouse is important for other functions. The mouse is necessary for selecting from menus and maps and moving around the briefing screens. Not to mention controlling the Virtual Cockpit view and External cameras.

Here's the Mouse buttons;
Buttons 1 and 2 by default are assigned to camera zoom (plus you move the mouse in and out) and camera reset. Button three and the Wheel can be assigned else where.

Mouse_Btn_1
Mouse_Btn_2
Mouse_Btn_3

Screen Shots;
By default the RMENU (Print Screen) Key is used. The Screens are saved as uncompressed BMPs in the games root folder as SCRNxxxxx.bmp (Other versions may save them in a \Screenshot sub folder.) Win2000/XP does not seem to like the key assignment that EAW defaults too for its screen captures. Try assigning the INSERT key if you have problems. ALT F12 has worked in the passed as well.

Game Hesitation: If you take a short quick series of screenshots, you may notice a slight loss of framerate, or "hesitation" in the game. This is just the screenshot being placed in the EAW main game folder. They are saved with filename scrn****.bmp", where the **** are replaced by four digits. Be aware that screenshot size increases dramatically with higher resolutions; 1280 x 1024 yields a 3.8MB bitmap screenshot, game hesitation maybe longer with larger screenshots.

Taking screenshots from various angles in external view:
-Pause the game. (Alt - P)
-F9 will switch the picture of yourself from the outside. Move the mouse around or press the u, n, h, j keys to change the angle of the camera up, down, left, right. Also, pressing the left mouse button and dragging will magnify and reduce.
-Press CTRL F12 keys to move space freely. If you push the left button of the mouse and drag it forward, you will move backward by pulling forward. Because it is shared with scaling.
-Take the screenshots when you are viewing the objects you like with the size or angle you set.

CODEGROUP VERSION CONTENT

*Please see my Joystick and Controls Help instructions starting with this page up above for setting up your Flight Stick controller in EAW first. Most of that information in that section will help with EAWv1.28 as well.

Reminder: This particular help document only addresses the CodeGroup's source changes, you'll have to read the standard stock Joystick and Controls Help Document for more information.

Getting Your Rudder Foot Pedals or Extra Throttle To Work
(Joystick with Secondary Controller(s)):

Since your using the CodeGroup's EAW v1.28c/d/e or above versions, you'll want to use the following instructions to help you get that 2nd controller to work (or 3rd). These instructions only address the additional controller setup for these source modified versions and assumes your primarily flight stick is already setup. (See my Joystick and Controls Help Document for instructions for setting up your 1st Flight Stick controller (you can skip the additional controller instructions in that doc).

Using the source modifications done by the CodeGroup, v1.28c/d and later versions which work with two(2) devices (Their v1.28e and later versions allows the use of three(3) standard Joysticks on separate Device ID's (plugged into different ports) without special software. This new support makes the CodeGroups EAW versions easier to setup than stock EAWv1.2 would allow; meaning you can use external rudder pedals, listed as an additional controller in Windows, even if all your flight controls are of one connection type (not to be confused as chain-linked with one connection), such as all are USB plugged into different ports. Note: However only the first and preferred device (usually Flight Stick) can have in-game assigned buttons, the additional two need special profile or button assignment software that comes with your controller.

1) For the setup of your external throttle or rudder pedals, if you have confirmed already that your primary controller is working properly in game, Install and Connect your Throttle stick and/or Rudder pedals as directed by the manufacture. (If your troubleshooting only, just plug one or the other in for now).

2) Find out where your Throttle or Rudder Pedals are on the list in Windows and write it down. Device ID2 (and ID3 if you plugged all three in) is where it should be at, with again, your primary flight stick should still be the preferred Device ID1. If not move your flight Joystick to ID1 (first on the list / "work with older game option").

3) Load up the game and go to "CONFIGURE GAME" > "CONTROL". You should be on the 'Controller Setup' Screen. There you will see the first four lines, make sure there all moved to the left most setting. The Joystick is assigned for Flight Control and Rudder is Rudder and Throttle is Throttle, Camera is Mouse.

-If all went well with EAW detecting your controllers, none of them will be grayed out and you can try a Quick mission to test all your controllers for proper configuration.

-If any of them are grayed out, then read the section further below titled: CONTROLS SECTION, Device and Ports. Then come back here when you think you have configured your INI appropriately and goto step 4 just below.

4) Goto step 3 and see if any of the control options are grayed out. If everything worked out then you can fly to see if your controls are responding correctly. If any are grayed out then you need to fiddle some more with the eaw.ini Controls section to match to the Windows List.

5) Repeat for your next controller if you previously chose to setup one.

*For further help in fixing an issue, read my 'Troubleshoot Help Document'.

Here are three of them at their default value settings. Please see my CodeGroup EAW.INI Help Document for more information on how to use these three settings to your advantage.

Snapview Speed=5
Guns Convergence Z=0
Guns Convergence Y=0

This area of the document may seem very advanced for some pilots, but I tried to explain it the best I could with the most detail as possible.

Device and Ports
In the CodeGroups v1.28c/d versions and up a second Joystick can be used (In v1.28e three sticks can be used) on different Device ID#'s listed in the Windows Gaming Controllers Control Panel. Meaning you can now possibly use up to three standard devices at the same time. Such as a USB Stick with external USB rudder pedals and external Throttle as listed as an additional controller (on separate port #'s) in Windows.

Note1:
When adding in the extra devices to the source code, physically three standard 'Joysticks' where tested with this new configuration when the routines where written in the source code. The Stick axis was used on the primary, while throttle was used on the next, and rudder (twist handle) was used on the last. All the rest of the unused axis's where ignored on each stick.

Note2:
Three (3) Device Warning; If you have three devices and if they are all listed as one DeviceID# in the Windows Gaming Control Panel, Such as Stick, Throttle, Rudder on ID1. Then they are actually using the original controller code found in v1.2 of EAW. This may or may not work with three devices. The Rudder axis may actually be controlled by the Throttle levers. The only solution in this scenario is to disconnect the Rudder Pedals so they are on there own ID# to work properly. Perhaps add the Rudder as DeviceID2 in Windows Gaming Control Panel, while the Stick and Throttle are on ID1. This is the solution if your HOTAS doesn't have legacy game support software.

Note3:
Be aware you still can not assign buttons from within the game to the extra sticks, only the Stick buttons of the primary Device ID1 can have in-game assigned buttons. If you are using another 'controller' at a different ID# with buttons, like a separate throttle which has buttons on it, then you would need special software from the company that has provided your throttle to assign buttons on that controller.

Below in the list, there are three 'Device# Port=#' entries that are in the eaw.ini file (this file is in your game folder and opens with notepad) to swap controller devices, ports and the function they use. These can be used by you to define which controller gets used for Stick axes, Throttle and Rudder. (These entries are not in EAWv1.2 and can be ignored for that version). The number after the = always represent the controller position in your Windows Game Controllers Control Panel*. (If you use a Value of 0 (Zero), this will usually disable that device.)

*The actual List number in the Windows Game Controllers Control Panel (JOY.CPL) is not shown, you just have to count from the top of the list as 1 and the rest follow. So far for most players, this has been a trial and error adventure to assign the correct numbers for the devices they use... Part of the problem is that it's hazy regarding the relationships between the 'Device# Port' = value and the Windows value. The person that programmed support for two extra devices (three total) says that Device# Port= 'Windows Controller List number'. You be the judge. If you can provide any clarification that you may figure out between the information I have provided in this document and what you discover, please contact me.

Reminder: You can run the Windows Game Controllers Control Panel by typing in the Start Menus RUN box JOY.CPL  This will quickly get you to it without having to go through more clicking in Windows.

Using With Other Gaming Devices:
Ok, so since EAWv1.28e+ you can have up to three different controllers. To get them working you need to find out on what position in your Windows Game Controllers Control Panel List your wanted controller devices are placed. However since many people use Gaming devices other than standard controllers, such as a gaming USB mouse, or a gaming USB keyboard etc alongside the wanted standard Joystick, Throttle or Rudder controllers, the number (position in the Windows List) even might be 3, 6 or 8. If so, the EAW.ini entries must be set to Device# Port=3, Device# Port=6 or Device# Port=8 just for an example. If you plug in just the stick and start with "Device1 Port=1 / Stick Device=1", if this doesn't work, try "Device1 Port=2 / Stick Device=2" and so on. Maybe you can find the true position of each device.
 

In the modern EAW INI file you will see a segment listed under [CONTROLS], such as the following:

Device1 Port=1
Device2 Port=2
Device3 Port=3
Rudder Device=1
Throttle Device=1
Stick Device=1
Key Device=1
POV Device=1

In this example below, only one Joystick (the MSSWFF2 Stick) is equipped with built in Throttle and Twist Handle (Rudder). Since they are on the same physical controller (In Windows, Device ID#1), same with the POV Hat, it uses the default settings. Device2 and Device3 do not exist, so they are ignored.

Device1 Port=1
Device2 Port=2
Device3 Port=3
Rudder Device=1
Throttle Device=1
Stick Device=1
Key Device=1
POV Device=1

If you switch Device1 to use your secondary controller on port two, then that controller becomes primary, thus the 2nd controller's buttons should now work in EAW without the need for external software. However the Device2 controller on port one will not be able to have the buttons assignable within the game. The configuration listed below just moves every function to the 2nd controller as if its primary.

Device1 Port=2
Device2 Port=1
Device3 Port=3
Rudder Device=2
Throttle Device=2
Stick Device=2

The configuration below leaves the primary on port 1 , Device2 is the Throttle Controller, Throttle Device= confirms this and indicates to use Device2 on port2.

Device1 Port=1
Device2 Port=2
Device3 Port=3
Rudder Device=1
Throttle Device=2
Stick Device=1

Below we use a USB Logitech Extreme 3D Joystick (which is a fairly standard Joystick) with a USB Saitek Pro Flight Rudder Pedals. The Rudder Pedals are the 2nd device (plugged into port 2) shown here and is not part of the primary Joystick, so its set to Device2. While the Throttle still remains on the primary Joystick; both set to Device1 , Port1.

Device1 Port=1
Device2 Port=2
Device3 Port=3
Rudder Device=2
Throttle Device=1
Stick Device=1

Below we use a Logitech G940 HOTAS flight package (which is fairly unique). This package has Stick, Throttle and Rudder Pedals.

Device1 Port=1
Device2 Port=2
Device3 Port=3
Rudder Device=3
Throttle Device=2
Stick Device=1

Thrustmaster USB T Flight Stick X (Not HOTAS). You see here Zero "0" is actually used as the Stick device

Device1 Port=0
Device2 Port=1
Device3 Port=2
Rudder Device=2
Throttle Device=1
Stick Device=0

Logitech Flight System G940 HOTAS. You see here Zero "0" is actually used as the Stick device

Device1 Port=0
Device2 Port=2
Device3 Port=3
Rudder Device=3
Throttle Device=2
Stick Device=0

A BU0836 Controller Board on DeviceID1 in Windows; Stick and Throttle Connected. Rudder Pedals on separate USB port as DeviceID2 in Windows.

Device1 Port=1
Device2 Port=2
Device3 Port=0
Rudder Device=2
Throttle Device=1
Stick Device=1

For EAWv1.28(I think) and up, the code was changed to a default low of 4. More modern sticks work well with the lower values. The range is from 0 to 20.

Reminder:
This particular help document only addresses the CodeGroup's source changes, you'll have to read the sections on the standard stock EAW game controls for more information.

Reminder:
This particular help document only addresses the CodeGroup's source changes, you'll have to read the sections on the standard stock EAW game controls for more information.

The new configuration of controls and weapon usage which has replaced the stock game configuration. the new system is described below.

Historically Correct Gun / Fire Buttons Example:
How to setup Historically Correct Gun/Fire Buttons with a third gun/weapon option only available in newer EAW versions (v1.28a and up).
You can setup your Joystick buttons now to be able to fire three different types of weapons. The Standard Machine Guns, Cannons and a third type if available for your plane/loadout, such as Gunpods, hence you get two totally different gun button setups, without the need to for External Joystick Button Assignment software. (This feature was added in v1.28a and changes some of the old key assignments, so v1.2 can only have a close approximation of this historic configuration.)

With the fire/trigger button you can shoot the MG´s(1st gun group), with one of the buttons left next to the hatswitch you shoot the 2nd guns (cannons in German planes), with the button below the "2nd Guns button" you can use as Additional Guns(if available), gunpods for example. This also works with the P38, P39, P47 etc and helps to save ammo. Other weapon types such as Bombs/Rockets/Torpedo's you can release with a button on the stick base.

(2 fire buttons, one additional gun select button) would be historical correct and is very handy. With just three gun buttons, its not possible to shoot all guns together, at least not in a historical correct way.

Using a Logitech Wingman Extreme 3D Pro (6 buttons at the base, 5 buttons at the grip + hatswitch).

FIRE ALL GUNS=SPACE
FIRE ADDITIONAL GUNS=S
ADDITIONAL GUNS BUTTON SWAP=SHIFT S
ADDITIONAL GUNS ON/OFF=Joystick_Btn_3
FIRE PRIMARY GUNS=Joystick_Btn_1
FIRE SECONDARY GUNS=Joystick_Btn_5

*The ADDITIONAL GUNS BUTTON SWAP switches the function of ADDITIONAL GUNS ON/OFF to "Fire Third Guns".
*The "ADDITIONAL GUNS ON/OFF" adds or removes a 3rd gun group to the "FIRE SECONDARY GUNS" button.

The ADDITIONAL GUNS BUTTON SWAP switches the function of ADDITIONAL GUNS ON/OFF to "Fire Third Guns". This feature is is needed in Planes with three different guns, that normally don't get used together. For an example the FW190F8 with MK103 gunpods to attack tanks. There is no need to shoot the 20mm together with the 30mm, cause the 20mm will not have good results on heavy armored vehicles. Similar with the P39 and its big cannon or the He219 etc. You probably won't use this feature that much, but in some planes its useful and historically correct.

View Flying Styles

A Version Note;
In EAW v1.28 and above, the Pilot Skill level in difficulty settings effects the allowed views in the game you can use. See my CodeGroup EAW.INI Help Document for more information on how this difficulty setting limits your views and effects game play.

Internal Views
Note: SNAP VIEWS have shifted view points (added in 1.28a/c) in the Virtual Cockpit to see 'around' the planes pilot seat and structure better than standard views.

For EAW v1.28 and above, you can adjust the head turn speed by the newly added "snapview speed=" value in the eaw.ini, (some people complained that the default snapview head turn speed is un-naturally fast, this can get slowed down now.)

*cockpit toggle (switches cockpit off so you can see without the cockpit being displayed, allows you to see more.) In EAW v1.28 and above, the new higher Pilot Skill Difficulties will not allow this.

*In EAW v1.28 and above, the check six snap view was changed into a more realistic one; the back of the pilot seat is now present. So now to get the  "mirror like" check six view (where there is no chair in the view) you need to press snap view rear (default Numpad2) followed by the cockpit on/off (default Numpad DECIMAL)). If the new Pilot Skill Difficulty allows it. The more historical option is to 'fishtail' side to side to get a decent 'rear view' without toggling the cockpit off. To fly without frames and rear plating is a real immersion killer. Most real world WWII planes didn't have a mirror.

This section of the document is to provide information about miscellaneous control/key usage.
 

WEP or 'War Emergency Power' ;
Some will say that in the original stock game, WEP is modeled as 100% power on the throttle and your engine will overheat at that setting within 5 mins or so. You can turn it off by reducing the throttle a bit, perhaps back to 80 or 85%. Also if you manipulate the throttle during the course of your flight, by reducing it when you don't really need full throttle, such as in dives and a few other maneuvers, then you won't have overheating problems.

(added in EAW v1.28d)
Apparently in v1.28d and up WEP was modeled better by changing some values...below is how it's used in those versions of the game.

When you start a mission, WEP is ON by default when a plane is equipped with it, meaning you can use all the rpms the plane has to provide. WEP will give you 10% more rpms of boost power when you increase the throttle to the max.

If the engines come close to or does overheat you can turn WEP off with the THROTTLE 100%=SHIFT EQUALS [SHIFT =]. This will reduce the amount of rpms you can use at full throttle, they will no longer max out in normal flight, keeping the engines from overheating. To turn it back ON use [SHIFT =] again and you can use those increased rpms at full throttle.

Here's the Mouse buttons;
Mouse Wheel Throttle: (added in EAW v1.28d);
Can be used as a throttle by setting Throttle Device=0 in the [CONTROLS] section of the eaw.ini. This is very handy for those that use mouse-look to look around. Now you don't have to take your hand off the mouse to adjust the throttle.

Special Throttle Management (added in EAW v1.28c);
Engine starts require 40%-50% throttle power, No gas, no start. If you don't have enough power, the engine will sputter, show white smoke and quit. Too much throttle and an explosive flaming “wet start” will occur. Engine may be damaged by repeated wet starts or jamming the throttle forward too fast on a cold engine...

If the engine is running but still cold, you need to increase power smoothly, otherwise the engine will take damage. The engine can over-cool in a long dive with reduced power, be careful with the throttle afterwards!! Jets need a smooth throttle hand between 0 and 60% throttle, no matter how hot the engine is. If you move the throttle too fast, the turbine can catch fire.

All Engines ON/OFF (for version 1.60 and above):
ALT E - Is used to turn on and off all engines at once. (It appears to be hardcoded, rather than in the ini file.)

Autoclimb (added in EAW v1.28a and tweaked later);
This will allow the plane to Climb by itself. Use the following keys: Wingleveler[SHIFT A] then Autopilot[A] to turn on Autoclimb. Tap the [A] key again to turn it off. Note: Manual throttle control is functional during Autoclimb.

Wing Leveler Adjustable Throttle (added in EAW v1.28c);
Manual throttle control is now functional during Wing Leveler use in this version of EAW and above.

[END]